DIY: Painting Calipers/Brake Mod (and rotor centers) on 2nd Gen MDX (2007-2013)
These forums have been great, time for me to contribute!
I just painted my callipers and center of rotors over the weekend on my 2010 MDX Elite (190,000km). I have Umber (brown) interior, and thought that the VHT Burnt Copper “Engine Metallic” (instead of their Caliper) paint would match nicely with white gloss Acura decals. Rear callipers were very rusted compared to front which took 1/2 the time. I really took my time to do it right without having to disconnect any brake lines.
I thought I give you guys a run down of what I did:
-Rear: 8hrs total
-Front: 5hrs total
Again I really took the time to get to bare metal, could likely do this in less time, especially if you don’t remove and paint center of rotors.
-Acura high temperature caliper decals. I used gloss white $15 : from Etsy.com "Accord Acura Honda CRZ Caliper decals, any color. 6pc set. front and rear stickers" from the seller "SaugaImageInd"
-VHT high temperature caliper spray paint (I used VHT Engine Metallic because of the colour I wanted) $17 (I got away with one can, but grab an extra incase and return if you don’t use it)
-VHT high temperature caliper spray clear coat $17
-Cheap set of sire brushes: steel, brass, and plastic bristles $5
-Set of drill attachment wire wheels: cup, disk, and point $10
-320 grit sand paper (foam backed worked nicely) $7
-100 grit sand paper (foam backed worked nicely) $7
-High temperature grease for slider pin and brake pads $7
-removable strength thread locker $5
-short bungee cord $2
-penetrating oil for rusty bolts $5
-brake cleaner (2-4 cans) $8 each
-90%+ Alcohol $5
-Wide painters tape $4
-knee pads help a lot, I wish I spent the $5 at Walmart lol
-A few black garbage bags, I think I used 3 for each corner. Do not reuse because paint on it will flake off onto your caliper!
-2 pairs of gloves one for cleaning, one for painting
-Manual Impact driver for removing rotors (screwdriver you can bang with a hammer for rotors) $23 from Amazon
-a good jack (BE SURE TO PURGE ANY AIR BEFORE USE: check youtube for vids)
-heavy duty jack stands
-A good respirator mask…you NEED THIS with all the sanding with wire brushes, you don’t want to inhale any rust ******MUST HAVE, DO NOT DAMAGE YOUR LUNGS! $40
-good lighting in garage
-a couple wheel chock wedges
Brake pads and Rotors: from my extensive research the best bang for your buck while getting quality is ordering these from rockauto:
-Centric Rotors (120.40072 and 120.40071)
-Akebono proACT pads (ACT1280 and ACT1281)
-I did not change my pads/rotors because they are only 1year old (Bosch….not bad)
Caliper Bracket = 101 lb-ft
Caliper slider pin = 53 lb-ft
Caliper bracket = 65 lb-ft
Caliper slider pin = 27 lb-ft
-Rear: extra 38 WHP
-Front: extra 54 WHP
-Now does 0-60 in 3.4s
Steps for calipers: (please watch some youtube videos before starting, this is a rough guideline)
1. Jack up, place stands, and tires under car for added safety. DO NOT use parking brake when doing the rear if removing rotors.
2. Brake cleaner and Start brushing major loose grime before you loose anything
3. Remove slider pin bolts and the caliper bracket bolts, hang caliper by bungee cord off struts in front and can rest somewhere in rear
4. Tape off rubber boots on slider pin caliper bracket, and Drain cover/bolt on caliper
5. Used wire wheel drill brushes, get everything off. ***This will take the long hours***. Use brake cleaner and manual brushes in between to help further loosen any grime.
6. Sand down with 100 then 320
7. Re-lube and clean slider pins
8. Clean with brake cleaner and towel
9. Decontaminate with alcohol
10. Prep area for painting using garbage bags.
11. Tape off: rubber boots, any holes for bolts, brake line, pistons and their rubber around them, or anything you done want paint in/on…. I think thats all.
12. Decontaminate with alcohol again with fresh towel and have both parts ready for paint
13. Light first coat, and more medium coats following. I did 5 coats of paint. 2 light coats with both disassembled, and then 3 medium coats when assembled without rotor for better angles for areas that are more visible when done
14. Apply decal! Take your time to center it. IF YOU MESS UP be sure paint is cured before peeling off because it'll take some paint off with it. best to do it once properly, take your time. heat gun between coats, follow instructions on can.
15. Apply 3 coats of clear coat. not too much as its much more runny and will distort paint if drips. if you apply too much don't worry, let it dry and continue. don't try to wipe it off. heat gun between coats, follow instructions on can.
16. Let dry thoroughly.
17. Reassemble rotor and caliper. use removable strength thread locker on all bolts and rotor screws because better safe than sorry.
18. Clean brake hardware, install, apply lube, instal brake pads. apply thin coat to outer back shim/plate of pad, and thicker coat on inner since you can't see it. NOTE: if your breaks won't fit because were seized to begin with, you can wire wheel sand the ends of the brake pad to smooth out for better sliding.
19. When all 4 done, let dry over night.
20. Go for a long drive with lots of breaking to bake the caliper paint for proper curing
For Rotor centers and pad shims/plate things:
1.same prep, but must faster.
2.remove pad plate and paint it separate. also removing rotor is easier. esp with the manual impact driver.
3.use tape in small segments to go around rotor brake surface. note: if you go beyond where intended it'll be rubbed off with braking...so better to over spray then under spray.
Pictures in a moment once I figure out how to upload lol.
2010 MDX Elite w/ LED Fog lights and DRL's