Tires wearing more on inside
I have 2011 base mdx with about 70K miles. Last year I notice tires wearing more on inside (about 15K on tires at that time). Tire shop suggested alignment. I took it for alignment check and they indicated RR camber -1.3 and slight rear Toe.
I took it to Acura dealership and they found rear camber to be within spec (-.9 and -1.1) and toe was ok, .00 and .03. As per Acura and independent shop, suspension has no issues.
I rotate tires every 5k and have never towed anything, have passengers only few times a year.
Now after 10k more miles, tires are still wearing more aggressively on inside. because of rotation, all 4 tires need replacement, which I am getting shortly.
My question - Will -1 camber cause tires to wear more on inside ? should I be getting new springs or camber kit? If anyone has used camber kit or after market springs on 2nd Gen, please share your experience.
I have had adjustable cambers on 3 of my 2007 MDX Sport wheels, since December 2015. Perfectly even tire wear, on my Pirelii Scorpion Verde Plus tires. (note...when these tires wore down to 6/32 tread depth, they became noisy).
I question the recommended camber values (-.9 and -1.1) that you listed. One of those numbers should be a positive, I think.
Having the tops of your tires leaning toward the car more than a few tenths, of a degree, is not correct.
Also, zero degree (straight up vertical) camber is not good either.
The more that the tops, of your tires lean toward the car, the more toe out you have created.
Toe out wears down the inner edge of tires.
Acura offers a front "Adjust Kit, Camber (bolt)" #06511-SZA-A00, for all MDX 2007 - 2013 inclusive. Around $18 ea. side online price.
Other than that, I don't know of anything, for a front camber adjustment.
For the rear camber adjustment:
SPC Performance makes SPC 67570 ($103 ea. side), which comes with an adapter, for the ride height unit on the MDX Sport model. You can remove the adapter, if you don't have the MDX Sport model.
You can get the camber very close, by using a Craftsman digital level (14" long).
Adjust each tire (on a level surface), so that the top of each tire leans towards the car (called negative camber), between .2 or .3 degrees. (note...we are using tenths of a degree, not a whole degree)
Now you're ready to get it aligned and to see your new printed out camber values.
On the SPC adjusters, if you want to get closer to .2 degrees negative camber... as you expose or as you hide a complete thread (on the adjuster's bolt), you will change the camber angle by .625 degrees.
thank you very much for detailed reply and suggestions. Did you have uneven wear before adjustable camber tool?
I got the Pirelli Scorpions and an alignment.
My alignment printout had my values on the edge of recommended values, so I bought a front camber bolt and 2 rear camber adjusters.
Will -1.0 camber cause tires to wear more on inside ?
Will -1.0 camber cause tires to wear more on inside ?
Back in the early 90s, Acura had the NSX set up to really, really hold the road, with so much negative camber that a set of tires was lasting only 8,000 miles. NSX owners never noticed, until they had a blow out.
Your issue is not the alignment but what's causing it to be off!
When the car is aligned it is stationary using figures for a new or slightly worn suspension. When you are driving, he suspension is under more load and is moving and changing. If you hit a bump, camber changes (in the negative direction) and a worn shock or spring/strut will allow the car to oscillate up (positive camber) and down (negative camber)for a longer period meaning the tire is in more negative camber situations causing more wear. Lets not even throw toe into the mix which changes also causing more inner tire wear! Toe changes also occurs during the oscillations adding to the wear.
Your shocks/struts and springs may be worn causing issues. I had extreme feathering on the rear of my MDX with the electronic shocks. Acura replaced the first set around 80K under warranty when that was occurring and I paid for new tires. Had the same happen again around 140K on the MDX again with the electronic shocks. New tech model assemblies on the front and new springs in the rear with new struts and it's better than ever in a sense. A bit softer than the sport mode that I'm used to but rides well and no more bad wear.
Get new shocks/struts and springs along with new sway bar endlinks and you will notice a significant improvement not only in ride quality but tire wear.
It's about 2 hours for the rear for labor and 2.5 in the front plus alignment for the new parts. I'd also recommend having a mechanic inspect your inner tire rod ends as well, common issue for MDX's where they wear at higher miles esp with worn suspension. That's an additional 1.5 hr labor to do. The steering will feel much more direct and less sloppy with them replaced if they are worn. Same with outer tie rod ends if they are worn.
Rock auto has been great on pricing plus shipping vs other places including amazon with the 5% off coupon code. Beck Arnley parts are usually parts are pretty good and I used those on the MDX for my endlinks and tie rod ends and am satisifed vs Moog!
thanks for detailed reply.
I have about 70K miles and was able to change tires to LX20.
I plan on changing suspension components as you indicated.
Did you go with OEM springs in rear or aftermarket ?
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