I think you'll find Acura to be fairly similar when ordering depending on your timing with the new model. Quite frankly, as you discovered, your affiliation really didn't do anything other than give you a base point. These kinds of "buying programs" whether it's the one you used or a more recognizable one such as Sam's Club or Costco, are really meant for people who aren't good negotiators or simply dislike the negotiating process. Of course if there is a trade involved those people often end up forgetting that side of the transaction. In the end all you need are the two most aggressive dealers near you, and in many cases you don't even need the 2nd dealer. TrueCar is probably the most useful tool these days and they use your zip code as dealer incentives are specific to the buyers zip code. In other words, just because the price would be better 3 states away doesn't mean you can buy there and get the local incentive unless you have a legit address there to use.
Now on to the issue of ordering. The landscape has changed significantly in recent years and the benchmark for a "great" deal has changed. It is far more volatile today and where incentives that impacted the deal may only change by $500 from one month to another it's now not unusual to see $1,000 or even $2,000 swings. The manufacturers are so dialed in with not only their planned model year production quantity, but the model mix within that total. Then incentives, in many cases now on the back end (dealer incentive) rather than on the front end (consumer incentive). They are typically on a 30 day cycle ending in the first few days of any given month and once that date passes there is no taking the earlier deal. On top of that there are frequently volume related dealer incentives, either model specific or total new product, that can be significant. Think $20,000 significant. So in rare cases you will encounter a dealer in the last days of a cycle with his target just out of reach unless he makes some "magic" do a deal that is $2,000 below his normal price point. That's because by losing $2,000 on an individual deal he collects the $20,000 bonus, still a net of $18,000 for his new car department. That can be the difference between the new car department making or losing money or getting the sales manager to his next bonus level, so you can understand the motivation.
I give you all that info not only to help others here figure out how to get their best deal, but to help explain why ordering will make sure you get the color and option group you want, but also takes away significant negotiating power. It's not uncommon, even without the scenario I painted coming into play, for price points to drop into the 8-10% under invoice range. If you order though, the dealer has no clue what back end monies or volume bonuses will be impacted when the car delivers. It's a total crap shoot for him. Obviously the early 2020's will command a premium because of the redesign, though I wouldn't expect dealers to stick to list or anything crazy like that, but likely at invoice or $500 above and early orders will likely be treated the same. The better discounts should start to flow around December 2020 and depending on the model mix sell rate those that have been selling slower than expected will be bumped up. If you have some flexibility in your purchase time you could try to buy from stock in December and then order if you can't find a combo that suits you.
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