Last night when I opened the car door the interior lights didn't turned on (mode is set to "ON" when doors opened). The Auto mode is not working, it is not turning the head lights on, Navigation screen is always Day time mode only, console switches/buttons are off and ambience lights are off. But when I manually switched to "ON" Navigation screen changed to Night time mode, console switches/button lights are on and ambience lights are on. In either cases all interior dome lights are always off and not at all working.
Hmmm... you may just need to bring it into the dealer to diagnose. If the headlights aren't coming on in AUTO mode, then I wonder if you have a light sensor that's broken. But then your dome lights are always off too... harness issues? Yeah... dealer.
Thank you Neoshi for your response! The issue has been diagnosed by the dealer, it's FUSE. Replaced the fuse and everything is normal now.
The is my first MDX (2015 AWD Tech Pack) and it's just a year old and has only 11,000 miles on it. Several issues in one year definitely disappointed with ACURA brand. Never buy another Acura again.
Oh glad it was that simple, though I wonder what caused the fuse to blow. I misread and thought your headlights weren't coming on either, but I see it was just interior lamps.
Have seen this issue twice, once was a shorted puddle light in passenger mirror. Other time was an improperly routed door wire harness that got pinched and shorted to door.
Have seen this issue twice, once was a shorted puddle light in passenger mirror. Other time was an improperly routed door wire harness that got pinched and shorted to door.
I have similar issue - going to the dealer tomorrow. Auto-headlights don't work. Interior lights don't work. And the rear drivers side seat warmer won't go off intermittently. I'm going to feel stupid if it's just a fuse.
So funny, I was about to post here a few days ago with the exact same issue. I checked the fuses (driver footwell) and circuit 30 was blown. Replaced the 7.5 amp fuse with a 10 amp one. Everything works again.
You should never replace a fuse with one of a higher amperage rating since it reduces the safety of having a fuse in the first place and can cause something in the circuit to possibly overheat and start a fire or destroy a component. Unless the spec for that fuse indicated a 10a one that accidentally had a 7.5a one in its place, you should put the proper 7.5a fuse in it. If it blows again then you should have the dealer inspect the vehicle to determine why the fuse is blowing.
If the OP would have bothered to come back and update people on what the problem was we could all benefit but instead they added no value to this forum.
When I installed the remote start module it plugged into the trunk map light circuit. When my fuse blew recently, it happened right after I used the remote engine start. I just figured the original fuse didn't account for the extra load put on the circuit when the engine start module is installed. 7.5 to 10 amp isn't a catastrophic increase. If there's a short somewhere it'll just as easily blow the 10a fuse. I wouldn't worry about it.
When I installed the remote start module it plugged into the trunk map light circuit. When my fuse blew recently, it happened right after I used the remote engine start. I just figured the original fuse didn't account for the extra load put on the circuit when the engine start module is installed. 7.5 to 10 amp isn't a catastrophic increase. If there's a short somewhere it'll just as easily blow the 10a fuse. I wouldn't worry about it.
My point is that it's a poor practice for anyone to follow so people reading this should try to determine what the actual issue is rather than throwing a bigger fuse at it. OTOH, did you check to see if the 7.5a fuse was the correct one or if it should have been either a 10a or larger one all along or if changing to a larger fuse is part of the remote starter install?
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