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How i beat the TPMS and P0420

10K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  sseiyah 
#1 ·
Just wanted to share as to how I was able to beat these 2 issues with my 07 Acura MDX. There is a video on Youtube that shows how to place a resistor on one of the wires of the sensor....I tried that and it didn't work.. So there was this other method by using a spark plug non-fowler. Simply put, drill out 1 of the non-fowlers and screw it into the second non-fowler and screw it into the downstream O2 sensor hole and re attach the sensor into the non-fowlers and voila! Its been about 60 days and no more code...(cost 10$) (savings of about 1200.00 ...if no warranty)

The TPMS was a bit tricky cause I tried the "TPMS PIPE BOMB" which is all 4 sensors inside a piece of 3"ABS pipe with 2 end caps and a valve stem at one end)... it worked... for about 20 min then I got an TPMS ERROR on my screen. So what I did next was invent the "TPMS HAND GERNADE" which is a smaller 2"ABS pipe cut at approximately 2 1/2 to 3 inches with end caps on both sides and a valve stem on one end. When constructed Its about the size of a baseball. (cost to make 4 = 25$) The down side of using the 2" pipe is that I had to cut off half of the valve stem to make it fit in the 2" pipe... After inflating the pressure to 35lbs in each TPMSHG I placed 2 front wheel sensors on each side of the engine compartment (its easier if you can mark which sensors go on what side of the truck) and I zip tied them to something...For the 2 rear wheel sensors I hid one inside a small compartment located in the hatch area on the driver side and I haven't had time to look as to where to place the rear passenger one yet so I temporary placed it in the 3rd row cup holder... Its been 4 days now and they are all holding their air... Now I can switch from my summer to winter tires with no hassles and an extra 400$ in my pocket.

thanks for reading
 
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#5 ·
well one possible reason is: you can't disable traction control when the TPMS warning is lit up

so, if you get one wheel stuck on glare ice or in a rut you need to call a tow truck because you're not going anywhere - as soon as it detects wheelspin it disables engine power

I thought about hacking the system but figured it was simpler just to get a set of sensors off e-bay for my winter wheels ($80 shipped for set of 4) than to waste time on hacks
 
#3 ·
Well first let me say that I agree that it's "CONVENIENT" to know what pressure are in my tires... But, It's annoying as hell to be forced to purchase more sensors for extra rims or even not have the ability to completely shut them off!!

Secondly 90% of sensors do not malfunction; its just the battery that needs to be replaced however, the sensors are not built so that you can change the 2$ battery and therefore forces you to purchase a new sensor at 40$/70$/or even 150$ a piece. Plus the cost of labour to replace them...(and yes I have changed batteries at a cost of 1.89 each )

Thirdly It would cost me 400$ for 4 new sensors for my winter tires & rims or 25$ per tire twice a year (200$) to have the tires changed (summer/winter) just because of the sensors... I see these sensors as a luxury and not a necessity.

So in my case I now have the freedom at no cost to place my summer tires & rims/ winter tires and rims, cloudy day tires and rims, night time tires and rims, or my home made tires and rims without having to worry about the TPMS.

This is my 2 cents :)
 
#4 ·
I guess I still don't understand any reason at all for disabling it, even after your attempt to explain it, which doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. Especially since your cost estimates and math are way, way off.

I check my tire pressures regularly, and I still feel that I benefit from having TPMS. In four years, the TPMS has shown a warning once, when a tire had a puncture and I was not aware of it. It allowed me to get home and swap the wheel/tire and get the tire repaired, before reaching the point when the tire was actually flat. So it was well worth having, IMHO.

Also, your stated costs of maintaining the TPMS are WAY off. If you're swapping between winter tires and all-seasons, you're way better off having an extra set of wheels, so you don't have to pay for mounting and balancing tires twice a year. That makes sense regardless of whether or not your car has TPMS functioning.

Yes, on a TPMS car that means you need one extra set of TPMS sensors, which you only need to buy one time, and then you're good. They don't cost $40 or $70 or $150 each - please, do your homework before you post incorrect information like that! You can buy them new from Tim for $25 each for a second-gen MDX (part number 42753-STK-A04), or $22 each for a first-gen (06421-S3V-A00). You can also find them used for $10 each on car-part.com So your total cost for having a fully-functional TPMS for your second set of wheels is between $40 and $100, and that's only a one-time cost. There's NO WAY you have to pay $400; your math doesn't make any sense at all.

Battery replacement? The original TPMS sensors on my 2004 MDX are still going strong after ten years. I don't know how long the batteries last, but I haven't had to replace mine yet. Yeah, maybe some day they will need replacement, at which point I'll gladly spend $88 for another set. Hasn't happened yet, though.

So the only downside is spending the extra $40-100 for a second set of TPMS sensors, and that's only for those who swap winter tires on and off every year. That's a small price to pay for an important safety feature. I would never, ever disable the TPMS on my car. Especially after it alerted me to low tire pressure on a tire - that alone was worth the $100 not to get a flat somewhere inconvenient!
 
#8 ·
Local Acura dealership OEM TPMS 129.00 + tx each... 3 local tire shops average price is 70$ + tx each however none of the 3 shops had an after market listing for an 07 MDX... The one's online on sale for 25$ each down from 32$ each +shipping.... Like I said 40$,70$,150$ each.

If some people really believe that their TPMS is important then so be it... But for those who are looking for a way to not have to deal with the TPMS then I just offered a solution...
 
#9 ·
Local Acura dealership OEM TPMS 129.00 + tx each... 3 local tire shops average price is 70$ + tx each however none of the 3 shops had an after market listing for an 07 MDX... The one's online on sale for 25$ each down from 32$ each +shipping.... Like I said 40$,70$,150$ each.
LOL! So you found a place that overcharges for the TPMS, and that's the price you're claiming it costs. Too funny! Maybe I should place an ad on Craigslist to sell my 2004 MDX for $100,000 and then I can tell everyone that's how much an MDX costs! :D

The fact remains, Tim sells the TPMS for $25 each, and anyone in the country can buy them at that price from him. Unless someone puts a gun to your head and forces you to buy from a shop with ridiculous prices like the ones you mention, it still doesn't cost $400 for a set of TPMS sensors, and it doesn't cost $40 or $70 or $150 each.
 
#11 ·
nsxtasy,
The question to ask the OP is where is he located.
It's obvious that he is in Canada and we get raked over the coals and asked to bend over to pay for these little parts.

I know I went through this a couple of years ago to get a second set of TPMS for mt winter wheels.

I was lucky enough to find a complete set +1 on ebay for as you said, "a fraction of the cost"

But you still need the crush sleeve (sold separately) and the nut to fasten it all together (again sold separably)

I spoke to many a dealer in the US and some will gladly sell the parts but refuse to drop the package off at USPS. All the large shipping co's, add admin/duty fees to the shipping that make it cost just as much as we pay up here or more.

But to disable the TPMS completely is one thing I would not do.
 
#12 ·
I used one of the HELP 42009 Non-Fouler pieces on my rear downstream (bank 2) O2 sensor. I drilled it out all the way with a 1/2" bit then put that single non-fouler on the manifold, then put the O2 on top of the non-fouler.

I only get the P0420 code every few weeks and it usually goes off quickly so hopefully a single non-fouler will do the trick. Next time I'll probably just drop the J-Pipe for easier access if I need to put a 2nd non-fouler on. The O2 is completely out of the exhaust stream now so I'm hoping that will do the trick.
 
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