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Old 02-25-2013, 02:51 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MrHeeltoe View Post
17.5 on the flats. Not sure how good that is, but seems respectable.
That is pretty good considering I do not get much better when I am unloaded on the highway (I have a hard time going under 80mph)

I am very excited to see the results. I am seriously having a hard time not being able to modify anything performance wise "nothing available" on this vehicle. It is a first for me
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:28 PM   #32 (permalink)
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My prediction - less than 5 HP.
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:14 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I have never heard of 30% drivetrain loss correction factor.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:32 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I have never heard of 30% drivetrain loss correction factor.
Power is distributed to all four wheels. 30% drivetrain loss is common on AWD cars.

Examples are some Subaru STI's that are rated at 300hp and make 215awhp. That's 28% drivetrain loss.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:29 PM   #35 (permalink)
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were these dyno runs with the stock mufflers or with your axle back mufflers?
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:31 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Hmmm. It's surprising to see such a low number on a DynoJet for a vehicle rated with 300 HP. (FYI, my last stock Evo9 did aroung 280 WHP on the same style Dynojet; when I had the Evo8, that did 220 WHP stock on a low reading Dynojet)

This seriously makes me suspect that Honda/Acura is greatly exaggerating the HP numbers. (I suppose it could be the Cali gas you're forced to use. that alone accounted for a 15 HP loss on the Evo when compared to midwest or east coast numbers)

Otherwise, I think the gains are what it should be and is quite respectable. (A test pipe and downpipe combo for the Evo only gets you around 20 WHP, all else staying the same.)

Great job and thanks for the contribution!
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:46 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Please put me on the list sir
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:58 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Re: ATLP J-pipe for 07-09 MDX

I'm also on board, and interested in the mufflers as well.


-D.

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Old 05-10-2013, 10:36 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:26 PM   #40 (permalink)
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so where can we go and purchase this? I would like more low end power for my mdx... has anyone thought about or put a cut out exhaust on the mdx?
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:48 PM   #41 (permalink)
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here is a link to it on his website. He said he is gonna run a combo deal on this forum with the j-pipe and his "new currently in development" axel back exhaust. looking forward to it

ATLP J-Pipe V2R, 07-09 Acura MDX, ES00013V2R - HeelToe Automotive
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:24 PM   #42 (permalink)
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here is a link to it on his website. He said he is gonna run a combo deal on this forum with the j-pipe and his "new currently in development" axel back exhaust. looking forward to it

ATLP J-Pipe V2R, 07-09 Acura MDX, ES00013V2R - HeelToe Automotive
ty sir.. if its $460 on the website i wonder how much the combo deal is gonna be. thanks again.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:45 AM   #43 (permalink)
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User Jury:
Pipe went on extremely well, even with the "rust belt" variable it only requierd about 1.5hrs. Quality of the pipe is A+, couldn't ask for a better fit. Thank goodness all new gaskets are included because the old ones came off in particulate form.

*Sorry no pictures, I performed the removal/ install late afterwork last night and was not really planning on a writeup, but once I was finished I wanted to provide my fellow MDX'ers a little input on it and provide feedback to a great product.*

Hopefully I described this process well enough to help reduce the need for visual aids. If there is something I forgot/ left out I'll edit in later as I remember.

Tooling required:
Used about a half can of PD Blaster (was VERY helpful breaking loose the hardware while NOT breaking them), 14mm on the Crossmember bolts and Converter and Manifold nuts (manifold nuts will more than likely require a 1/2" ratchet for added "breaking" torque and also a 6" extension to reach up to them), and a 10mm on the heat shield and splash guard attached to the crossmember. 15mm box wrench and socket used for new hardware on the downstream flange and of course, a 3/8" twist handle torque wrench.

Removal Process:
I loosened (broke free) the Manifold nuts first, then the converter nuts. Dropped the crossmember and splash guard, then fully removed the converter nuts.
From there I removed all but (1) of each manifold flange nuts while leaving the remaining a couple turns on. Once (4) of the (6) nuts were off, I popped off the hanger (rubber componant) using a long prybar (long screwdriver or breaker bar will work).*NOTE* PB Blaster helps here also for removal / re-installation
Next, I removed the remaining nut on each flange to ease/ steady removal.

Installation:
I centered myself under the J-pipe placed the gaskets on the manifold flanges with a manifold nut in my right hand and carefully raised the pipe in place (A secondary jack can also be used but I like doing this way for more control over the pipe). If you are careful, concentrate, and go slow, you can manipulate the pipe in place with the gaskets on and over the studs in the flanges, then thread on (1) nut to help hold in place. After you have the 1 nut threaded on, Install the other nuts and going back and forth between the 2 flanges. This way the flanges and pipe seat flush and correct without binding. *Do not torque yet just tighten/ secure in place*

Next, install the rubber hanger in reverse of the removal (may take a little persuasion) especially with the longer hanger on the new J-pipe. Install the rubber componant on the pipe first then twist into place on the car's hanger. You may also need to remove the little heat shield for the hanger ((2) 10mm bolts), or I was able to just lightly bend out of the way to aid in installation.

From here install the downstream flange gasket (where the 3rd converter once was) by light manipulating the exhaust and j-pipe to "slide" it in between the 2 flanges.

*This step can be done differently depending on the rest of the install, this method works for me best especially when doing this with no additional hands.*

Once the gasket is in place, install the (3) bolts followed by the nuts. I installed them with the nut on the back toward the rear of the car and the bolt head on the forward end (Bolt head will be covered by heat shield once installed later). Tighten them down by a little bit on each one by alternating between them tightening a little bit at a time, this way the torque is equally applied across the flange/ gasket. I then torqued each nut to 40 ft-lbs.

Once the (3) nuts/ bolts are torqued on the downstream flange, Go to the manifold flanges once at a time and torque all (3) nuts on each flange, alternating between the 3 on each. Again, this way torque is equally applied to the flange/ gasket to prevent warpage and/ or binding. ONce all the manifold flange nuts are "tight" I then torqued each nut to 40 ft-lbs.
From here you can re-install the crossmember and then the splash guard (TOrqued (4) 14mm <- size of socket used, not actual size of bolts to 40 ft-lbs, the 10mm ones are about 10-15 ft-lbs).

Finally, if you prefer the old converter heat shield be re-installed install it now (last) or you will have a difficult time installing the (3) downstream flange nuts/ bolts. These bolts for the heat shield are also a 10mm socket and can be torqued to 10-15 ft-lbs.

From here double check all your bolts have been installed/ tightened and if you prefer wipe any noticeable residue (it will burn off but will help reduce the odor). Next start the car and let it warm up and verify no leaks, if so locate the leak and verify hardware is properly torqued (and gasket is properly seated <- you would see protruding out it if was not).
Clean up and test drive. You WILL smell some odor from all the chemicals burning off, this will stop after +/- 20 miles of regular driving. You may or may not notcie a different off the bat, but once the PCM re-learns the enhancements it will gradually.

*All following are my results, please note my present modifications in my sig as some may not notice what I have*

Sound: At an Idle, perfect little rumble and not much if any louder as before. Regular driving, Same as idle mild improvement in a rumble but not much volume change noticeable. I do notice a rattle from the heatshield (could be car or converter) at 1500RPM. At WOT the car just plain SCREAMs. Much more improved over before, very throaty while NOT AT ALL raspy and volume has increrased moderately.

Power/ response: Bear in mind this is "felt" power and not measured..but much improved when Vtec is engaged especially across the midrange and top end. Under "regular" driving the engine definitely feels like it is not working as hard, or better described "breathing easier". MPG thus far seems better, but I only have 50miles on so far and again the PCM is still learning so we will see in about a week.

All in all, I am very pleased with the product, well designed and very well manufactured. I had to contact Marcus last week about something minor and he very easy to contact and work with. Additionally (for him being 4hrs behind me time wise) he returned my call very promptly, was courteous and professional. Overall experience is A+/ 5 stars depending on the rating scale you prefer .

Now if we can only get a Hondata Flashpro for the MDX platform ...
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:13 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I very much appreciate the time you took to write this. Thanks!

Could you copy and paste your impressions into a review on the heeltoe site under the product? You can link from your order history.


As far as the combo with the muffler set I can post this up any time, but the mufflers need some logistical coordination before we can actually produce them. Up to you guys...

If you buy a Jpipe now we can always offer the mufflers to you at a discounted rate when they come available as well.
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Old 08-06-2013, 07:40 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I ordered this last week. They said they are waiting on a gasket and they will ship it out to me.

As soon as I install it, I will give you guys my opinions/thoughts. Looking forward to this
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Anyone interested in a Performance Cat-Back Exhaust?? Now's our chance!! Click below.....
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