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Old 07-25-2009, 02:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Valentine One - Hardwired in 08 MDX

I have a Valentine One Radar detector and would like to hard wire it so that I do not have to plug it in the "cigarette lighter". Does anyone know if there is a power source where I can tap into? Does the auto dimming rear view mirror have one?

I have an 08 MDX tech...any assistance will be greatly appreciated...thanks!
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Old 07-25-2009, 03:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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One member used an empty fuse socket.
2007 V1 Radar Detector Install
Valentine 1 hard wired
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Old 07-25-2009, 06:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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One word of warning - make sure to put the fuse in the 'add a circuit' exactly where it is in the picture. If you put it in the socket closer to the blade connector, then the climate control system will come on and not turn off. Strange but true.

Dave
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Old 07-26-2009, 12:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks..got the V1 installed in less than 15 minutes.

This is an awesome site...was going to pay $50 to have an mobile audio store install it.

Thanks again!!!!
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Old 07-26-2009, 05:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Valentine Is Past It's Prime

Gents,

With all due respect to a once-great detector, you are all living in the past. Perhaps it is because Valentine was so dominant for so many years that you all just assume it's the best, but times have changed - and Valentine hasn't.

That's the reality, but I'm not the pro who will argue it with you. Instead, you'll want to read what this guy has to say:

http://www.radartest.com/article.asp?articleid=9090

He has the great line: "The world has changed since [the Valentine] was designed in 1991. The Apple IIsi also was hot stuff that year but Apple knew better than to continue selling the same box."

Bottom line: If forward/backward is very important to you, get a Valentine, otherwise, get something else.
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Old 07-26-2009, 05:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by dngo
One word of warning - make sure to put the fuse in the 'add a circuit' exactly where it is in the picture. If you put it in the socket closer to the blade connector, then the climate control system will come on and not turn off. Strange but true.

Dave
I did a hard wire install for my Bel Vector 995, and put it on the dash, far left side. It gets lots of shade there from the side pillar, but still has a great view forward. Unlike you V1 fans, I'm not that interested in radar signals from behind me. Two sided velcro stick tape keeps it steady, and it doesn't get in the way of the sun shade, but is in fact protected by it.

It's easy access from there to the fusebox. However, unlike the installs above, I did not use the empty fuse drop. That drop is powered on all the time, and so you need to remember to power up or down your radar. I preferred to move it forward a fuse or two to a ignition-switched circuit. Now my radar detector is totally automatic, touch free. It powers up with my key, and off when I leave.

BTW, it is also important to put the "add a fuse" into the socket in just the right orientation. There are no instructions with this thing, so take heed: there are two connectors in the car's fuse socket. One is hot, and one is not. In the MDX, the upper one is hot. You need to have the wire side of the "add a fuse" in the cold side of the socket. If you do this wrong, you will be running the "add a fuse" new circuit's current through the OEM circuit's fuse as well as the OEM current. Brief: One way you tap into the vehicle's positive supply, and the other way you tap into an existing fused circuit.

If false alarms have you turning off your Valentine or any detector, then you are not protected. Are you driving the limit? If you hate falses, then step up to the Bel Pro GX65. Check out the graphs on this page: http://www.radartest.com/article_2.asp?articleid=100593

Bel Vector 995 (the cheaper one I got) review: http://www.radartest.com/article.asp?articleid=10030
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Valentine Is Past It's Prime

Quote:
Originally posted by moil4gold49
Gents,

With all due respect to a once-great detector, you are all living in the past. Perhaps it is because Valentine was so dominant for so many years that you all just assume it's the best, but times have changed - and Valentine hasn't.

That's the reality, but I'm not the pro who will argue it with you. Instead, you'll want to read what this guy has to say:

http://www.radartest.com/article.asp?articleid=9090

He has the great line: "The world has changed since [the Valentine] was designed in 1991. The Apple IIsi also was hot stuff that year but Apple knew better than to continue selling the same box."

Bottom line: If forward/backward is very important to you, get a Valentine, otherwise, get something else.
Believe what you will about Craig Peterson and his testing, but there are many references to him being paid by Bel and other detector manufacturers to bias his tests against certain detectors. There are also cases where he has been accused of trying to change the results of other testing.

http://www.guysoflidar.com/march-2007/sabotage.html

IMHO, Peterson's testing is about as credible as any other random testing on the internet (and you know what they say about what you read on the internet.) More credible sources, such as Car & Driver and Autoweek, have performed detector testing. Personally, I am more inclined to believe those results than those from any other sources.

This is not to defend my choice of a V1 - I'm sure your Bel is excellent. I have found my V1 to be quite sensitive, I love the directional arrows, and Valentine's support is second to none - I have had them do two repairs out of warranty in the last 7 years I've owned my detector and they have not charged me for either repair (or even shipping!)

Dave
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by moil4gold49

However, unlike the installs above, I did not use the empty fuse drop. That drop is powered on all the time, and so you need to remember to power up or down your radar.


That is not my experience at all, having performed this install last Sunday. The empty fuse socket in my X powers on and off with the key in the accessory position. I never have to touch my detector.

Dave
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Valentine Is Past It's Prime

Quote:
Originally posted by moil4gold49
Gents,

With all due respect to a once-great detector, you are all living in the past. Perhaps it is because Valentine was so dominant for so many years that you all just assume it's the best, but times have changed - and Valentine hasn't.

That's the reality, but I'm not the pro who will argue it with you. Instead, you'll want to read what this guy has to say:

http://www.radartest.com/article.asp?articleid=9090

He has the great line: "The world has changed since [the Valentine] was designed in 1991. The Apple IIsi also was hot stuff that year but Apple knew better than to continue selling the same box."

Bottom line: If forward/backward is very important to you, get a Valentine, otherwise, get something else.
Warning: my response is biased as I own a V1.

honestly, what you say above is bullsh*t. Sorry, there is no other word for it.

ALL V1's can be upgraded to current specs. There is no obsolescence.

Also, once you have the arrows and counters, no other detector comes close. I've tried other new ones, and gone back to my V1 every time.

This is coming from someone who used to drive 37k to 45k miles / year for a living (yes, I did blow through a warranty in under a year. twice).
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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"Believe what you will about Craig Peterson and his testing, but there are many references to him being paid by Bel and other detector manufacturers to bias his tests against certain detectors. "

Agreed. I certainly don't trust him 100%, and have no way of knowing if he is biased. But it is a fact that he has changed which detector he things is best over the years, right? Isn't it odd, if he is for sale, that he shill for Valentine years back, but now shill for Bel/Escort? He's been around long enough, and changed his picks enough to earn some credibility, from me at least.

Other less systematic review sites, such as Amazon.com, seemed to back it up. The Valentines, too, seem to attract a "fanboy" element, with cult-like appreciation for the devices, which to me suggests I factor that in to what people say. Don't get me wrong, you guys may have tested the @#$ out of these, and know for sure that it works better for you, but you can't deny that some people love their Valentine as much as their dog, but haven't upgraded it or ever done ANY research into how good the competitors are. Those are called fanboys, and they make it hard to separate fact from fiction.

Great link on Petersen, though. Of course, if true, that would prove that he was a total @#$hat, which is damning. But it doesn't imply bias - it may imply a bad character who can be bought, though.

Moil4Gold
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:23 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Warning: my response is biased as I own a V1.

honestly, what you say above is bullsh*t. Sorry, there is no other word for it.

ALL V1's can be upgraded to current specs. There is no obsolescence.


There's no doubt the customer service from Valentine surpasses Bel. Sure, the upgrading is great for preventing obsolescence. But it's also a great business model for recurring revenue. Valentine does have an ulterior motive, too.

But, all due respect, your 45k miles/year is still just one man's anecdotal evidence. I highly doubt you used a scientific method during those 45k miles, and that you had a range of devices on your dash to compare.

If the Radartest / Petersen data is wrong, as the V1 crowd claims, then instead of telling me I'm full of crap, why not instead point to a better comparison test that has different results? I'm keen to see it, and maybe I'll have to get a V1.

Unlike some in the V1 set, I have no religion in this, no horse in this race. I just want the best value in a detector.
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by dngo


That is not my experience at all, having performed this install last Sunday. The empty fuse socket in my X powers on and off with the key in the accessory position. I never have to touch my detector.

Dave [/B]
Really? I tested this thoroughly with a voltmeter prior to my install. It appeared that the top left, open fuseholder in my 09MDX Tech/Sport/Ent was always on.

The picture in question, of the install by cobrajames, is here 2007 V1 Radar Detector Install

But even more curious, is that you, yourself dngo, wrote on that thread:

Quote:
Originally posted by dngo

"One word of warning - make sure to put the fuse in the 'add a circuit' exactly where it is in the picture. If you put it in the socket closer to the blade connector, then the climate control system will come on and not turn off."[/B]
That would indicate that by putting a fuse in the open slot in the Acura, you would get the same result of climate system that will not turn off. That would indicate an "always on" circuit. How is is possible that that fuse location can power the climate system always on, but be switched for your detector?

I'm not saying you're lying or nuthin', but something confusing is happening here.
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by moil4gold49

Really? I tested this thoroughly with a voltmeter prior to my install. It appeared that the top left, open fuseholder in my 09MDX Tech/Sport/Ent was always on.

The picture in question, of the install by cobrajames, is here 2007 V1 Radar Detector Install

But even more curious, is that you, yourself dngo, wrote on that thread:


That would indicate that by putting a fuse in the open slot in the Acura, you would get the same result of climate system that will not turn off. That would indicate an "always on" circuit. How is is possible that that fuse location can power the climate system always on, but be switched for your detector?

I'm not saying you're lying or nuthin', but something confusing is happening here.
Confusing is right. I did not use a multimeter to check the behavior of the circuit for that fuse and I did not take the time to understand how the add-a-circuit is wired. Maybe I'll do a little digging today to see if I can find a circuit diagram or other info for the add-a-circuit.

All I know is that my setup works.

Dave
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by dngo


Confusing is right. I did not use a multimeter to check the behavior of the circuit for that fuse and I did not take the time to understand how the add-a-circuit is wired. Maybe I'll do a little digging today to see if I can find a circuit diagram or other info for the add-a-circuit.

All I know is that my setup works.

Dave
Well, that's the most important thing! Let me shift the discussion to the Add A Circuit, specifically:

Here's my testing results of how the Add-a-circuit (AAC) is wired. (Picture attached) The wiring is simple, and makes sense. But the AAC I bought had no instructions, which is bad, because it is clearly (if you know engineering) meant to be installed with a specific blade on the car's hot side.

I have labelled the blade that should be connected to vehicle's hot. In this picture, it is the right-lower blade, farther away from the red wire.

From Share


If done wrong, here are two potential problems:
- I put a three socket 12V extender in my add-a-fuse, with a 10A fuse. If I plug the AAC it in another circuit with 10A, but upside down, then the current from both circuits is running through the OEM circuit's fuse. It is likely to blow, despite nothing wrong with the electrical system (other then the AAC installation)

- If you put your AAC in any circuit, say the wipers. And it is installed backwards. Then if the wipers do something odd and blow their fuse, your AAC will no longer work - even though that fuse is pristine and your V1 is causing no problems and drawing a tiny current.

tags for Internet searchers: (add a fuze help, add a fuse information, add-a-fuse instructions, adding a fuse, adding a circuit, add a fuse to my car, put another fuse in car, put a circuit in my car, add a circuit instructions)
Attached Thumbnails
Valentine One - Hardwired in 08 MDX-addafuse.jpg  
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by moil4gold49


Well, that's the most important thing! Let me shift the discussion to the Add A Circuit, specifically:

Here's my testing results of how the Add-a-circuit (AAC) is wired. (Picture attached) The wiring is simple, and makes sense. But the AAC I bought had no instructions, which is bad, because it is clearly (if you know engineering) meant to be installed with a specific blade on the car's hot side.

I have labelled the blade that should be connected to vehicle's hot. In this picture, it is the right-lower blade, farther away from the red wire.

If done wrong, here are two potential problems:
- I put a three socket 12V extender in my add-a-fuse, with a 10A fuse. If I plug the AAC it in another circuit with 10A, but upside down, then the current from both circuits is running through the OEM circuit's fuse. It is likely to blow, despite nothing wrong with the electrical system (other then the AAC installation)

- If you put your AAC in any circuit, say the wipers. And it is installed backwards. Then if the wipers do something odd and blow their fuse, your AAC will no longer work - even though that fuse is pristine and your V1 is causing no problems and drawing a tiny current.

tags for Internet searchers: (add a fuze help, add a fuse information, add-a-fuse instructions, adding a fuse, adding a circuit, add a fuse to my car, put another fuse in car, put a circuit in my car, add a circuit instructions)
My AAC also had no instructions. The way the AAC is wired and with the position of the open socket, the natural installation orientation is correct and happens to be a matter of luck.

What's even stranger about the wiring diagram you posted is that it does not make sense for the behavior I observed. If the fuse in the AAC is put in the other position with the AAC in the same orientation, then not only does the HVAC system turn on with the key turned off, the V1 is also powered on! Something is definitely not right.

It would be nice if there was a wiring diagram available for the MDX so we could see what that empty socket in the interior fuse box was connected to. No mention in the owner's manual. Now I'm curious.

Dave
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