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Old 02-04-2013, 04:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Dome Light/Clock Fuse 2004 MDX

2004 Acura MDX
Everything is original factory installed (original radio, no alarm, never been in an accident)

Issue: Fuse for the factory clock and dome lights consistently blows (problem started 2 years ago). To date the Acura dealer, Honda dealer and blogging websites have not been any help. The fuse is blowing for no reason. When we take it to the dealers they simply replace the fuse and perform tests on the system and everything tests normal. The new fuse will last anywhere from 1 to 20 days before it blows. We have tried not turning on heating heats, radio, plugging in any power device to see if that is causing the fuse to blow but it does not seem to matter. When the new fuse is installed we can drive the car with no issues simply shut the car off and when we restart the vehicle the interior dome lights, TPMS and clock have all malfunctioned. The fuse is blowing because…..that is the unsolved mystery. The fuse does not impact the vehicle it is just an annoyance when you don’t know the time and at night when there are no dome lights because it is merely and inconvenience we have lived with it for 2 years.

Impact: The interior dome lights don’t work, TPMS light stays eliminated and the clock resets to 1:00 each time the vehicle is turned on/off. No other issues – horn works, radio works, preset radio station buttons work, trip monitor works, power outlets work, all outside lights such as reverse, brake, headlights all work.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ok, If your car have multiple issue with electrical..I would guess you have bad multiplex..It's not out of the question..

I assume your vehicle is not a touring package or else your Navi display will shut off too if FUSE 11 10amp keep blowing..In your case the Multi Info Display is off and Interior lights and TPMS is inop.

This issue with fuse pop after a while of replacing the fuse, lead me to think the fuse circuit is overloaded ! pass 10amp rating.. but something is drawing much more current then that..

It's hard to guess but best if you disconnect the circuit one by one to find the problem..


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Old 09-08-2013, 08:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by soleary72 View Post
2004 Acura MDX
Everything is original factory installed (original radio, no alarm, never been in an accident)

Issue: Fuse for the factory clock and dome lights consistently blows (problem started 2 years ago). To date the Acura dealer, Honda dealer and blogging websites have not been any help. The fuse is blowing for no reason. When we take it to the dealers they simply replace the fuse and perform tests on the system and everything tests normal. The new fuse will last anywhere from 1 to 20 days before it blows. We have tried not turning on heating heats, radio, plugging in any power device to see if that is causing the fuse to blow but it does not seem to matter. When the new fuse is installed we can drive the car with no issues simply shut the car off and when we restart the vehicle the interior dome lights, TPMS and clock have all malfunctioned. The fuse is blowing because…..that is the unsolved mystery. The fuse does not impact the vehicle it is just an annoyance when you don’t know the time and at night when there are no dome lights because it is merely and inconvenience we have lived with it for 2 years.

Impact: The interior dome lights don’t work, TPMS light stays eliminated and the clock resets to 1:00 each time the vehicle is turned on/off. No other issues – horn works, radio works, preset radio station buttons work, trip monitor works, power outlets work, all outside lights such as reverse, brake, headlights all work.
I have a 2005 MDX with the same problem.
Fuse 11 (10A interior light) blows as soon as I replace it. I have removed all the interior lights bulbs including the vanity mirror lights,thinking it could be a shorted bulb, but the problem persists. I think there is a short in the wiring harness, but have no is idea how to locate the problem. This problem started at the same time I was getting an intermittent rear "tailgate open" warning light when the tailgate was closed. I'm not sure if they are related, but I unplugged the harness for the tailgate lights and the fuse is still blowing. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Replace all your interior light bulbs with LED's which will demand very little wattage (probably about 10% of what you had before), it may solve your problem if it's overload problem. Get your LED's from ebay.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Replace all your interior light bulbs with LED's which will demand very little wattage (probably about 10% of what you had before), it may solve your problem if it's overload problem. Get your LED's from ebay.
I don't think its a bulb issue because I removed all the bulbs and disconnected hfl, so therefore the current should be minimal (just tpms left on the circuit) and the fuse still blew as soon as I plugged it in. I'm starting to think I may have a wire shorting to ground somewhere in this circuit. Also I discovered today I had 2 blown license plate light bulbs. I replaced them , but they still don't work. I'm wondering if they are on the same circuit fed by fuse #11.
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jlaur61 View Post
I don't think its a bulb issue because I removed all the bulbs and disconnected hfl, so therefore the current should be minimal (just tpms left on the circuit) and the fuse still blew as soon as I plugged it in. I'm starting to think I may have a wire shorting to ground somewhere in this circuit. Also I discovered today I had 2 blown license plate light bulbs. I replaced them , but they still don't work. I'm wondering if they are on the same circuit fed by fuse #11.
Found the problem. There were 3 broken wires and 4 others had nicks inside the rubber boot connecting the rear hatch to the vehicle. Must have weakened or pinched with rear hatch opening and closing many times.
By carefully cutting the rubber boot, the broken wires were easily repaired with solder and heat shrink.
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