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Old 01-04-2011, 01:12 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Has the misfire behavior gotten any better or worse as you have driven it more?

Have you run that entire tank of gas through? Many people would suggest that you will not see instant results. Rather try to run the whole tank through, getting the tank as empty as you are comfortable with before filling up and adding some injector cleaner or just use one of the fuels with additives.

Meanwhile, I am guessing from your response that you have not taken a look at the EGR ports. If you have much mechanical ability at all that is pretty easy to check, and with 200K+ would seem to be a reasonable candidate - see my earlier post with the link to that info.

Have you read the codes more than once to see if it is consistent? Looks like you have #2 not misfiring. Can you read codes immediately after the first indication of a misfire to see if a particular cylinder is misfiring first? I think mechanics have equipment that will give immediate indications of which cylinders are misfiring.
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Old 01-04-2011, 02:29 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Fuel booster to cure a misfire. What a joke. EGR ports, EGR valve, Valve adjustment...
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:19 AM   #18 (permalink)
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"Fuel booster to cure a misfire. What a joke."

Yea, "might" help it run better if you got a standard grade fuel in there, but the X should run OK on standard grade fuel (warranty disclaimers aside). If cylinder #2 never misfires it really points away from a fuel problem anyway.
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Just had the very same thing happen with my 06 and had to have valve adjustment, misfiring. My malfunction light first came on randomly and the then the VHM light came on. When I did a cold start it would idle rough and then settle down. When I took this to the dealer the codes came back as misfirings and they did a valve adjustment. Dealer told me that the VHM is a byproduct of the malfunction light coming on which in turn makes this light malfunction???? Hope this helps.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:56 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I have been having this problem for over a year. I have an 01 200,101. I had misfires on every cylinder, replaced all spark plugs, had misfires on every cylinder again so replaced all 6 coil packs, next day check engine light came back on, cylinders 3 and 6 misfires. So I'm going to check the egr valve and see about the valve adjustment.
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Old 08-03-2012, 05:02 PM   #21 (permalink)
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renee....what did you end up doing? and did it solve your problem?
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:11 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I had the same fault this week, replaced the coil on #1 all good again. My wifes MDX has done 110K so I replaced the sparkplugs at the same time.
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:23 AM   #23 (permalink)
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First of all, any mechanic who says the valves on the MDX are self-adjusting is just trying to BS you. These engines have overhead cams, not hydraulic lifters with push rods.

Second, I will tell you what happened to me last week when we bought a 2001 MDX with 156,900 miles. The car had been sitting there for a whole year because of some engine issues, but the body and interior are in perfect shape so I decided to fork out $4000 to buy it for my son who just graduated from college and is on his first job.

When the engine is cold, it will die as soon as I take the foot of the gas. Once warmed up it runs like crap but the engine would stay on except for an occasional stall at a red light. I remove the upper plenum and cleaned out the EGR passages, then put it back together, and the symptoms remain the same. Meanwhile the "check engine" light came on with the following codes 300, 302, 303, 304, 305 and 306, indicating misfires in cylinders 2 through 6, all randomly, of course.

Since we have another 2001 MDX, I swapped the IAC and the EGR between the two cars with no change at all; the symptoms remain exactly the same. Then I read online that bad valve clearances will do that to you, so I decided to adjust the valves myself even though the previous owner showed me a receipt for the valve adjustment done at an Acura dealer when the car went in for timing belt replacement at 103,000 miles.

Guess what I found! Cylinder number 1, the only one that is not misfiring, is the only one having any clearance at all on the exhaust valves. All the other cylinders had absolutely no clearance at all at the exhaust valves, meaning that those exhaust valves are probably close to being open 100% of the time. I re-adjust all the valves to spec (0.008"-0.009" intake, 0.011"-0.013" exhaust), clear the codes and put everything back together. The whole thing took me half a day.

Well, the car ran beautifully after that and the codes never came back. I ran it through the driving cycles to set the Readiness Codes and took it in for a smog check (so I can register the car in my son's name). It passed with flying color. Everything is like new. All it costs me are the gaskets for the valve covers and the intake plenum. About $90 total and a lot of my time.

By the way, when I open up the valve covers, the seals are so old and so stuck to the heads, and that led me to believe the dealer charged the previous owner for the valve adjustment job without actually doing it! Either that or they are really incompetent! I always thought you get better service at the dealers, but that didn't seem to be the case here.
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:18 AM   #24 (permalink)
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the guy who ran the tester said that there were 3 cylinder misfires.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:14 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Glad I found this thread.

03 MDX - 142k miles. Malfunction Light turns on at engine start (Outside temperature between 28 - 40 degrees F*). After about 2 minutes of driving, VTM4 Light turns on.

Run OBDII reader and error codes P0134 and P2251 show. I lookup the codes using the link: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/066000_065578.pdf

P0134 - Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) No Activity Detected
P2251 - Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VS Line High Voltage


Car currently has rough idle. Taking my MDX into the Acura dealer to perform the following:
a) Valve Adjustment
b) Check ERG Valve
c) Possible replacement of rear A/F Sensor. (which sensors would need to be replaced for P2251?) Bosch 15401 ? Or Acura Part Number?
d) Fuel Systems cleaner with new gas.

Any other suggestions?
Does it look like I am heading in the right direction?

Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:55 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorro1 View Post
Glad I found this thread.

03 MDX - 142k miles. Malfunction Light turns on at engine start (Outside temperature between 28 - 40 degrees F*). After about 2 minutes of driving, VTM4 Light turns on.

Run OBDII reader and error codes P0134 and P2251 show. I lookup the codes using the link: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/066000_065578.pdf

P0134 - Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) No Activity Detected
P2251 - Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VS Line High Voltage


Car currently has rough idle. Taking my MDX into the Acura dealer to perform the following:
a) Valve Adjustment
b) Check ERG Valve
c) Possible replacement of rear A/F Sensor. (which sensors would need to be replaced for P2251?) Bosch 15401 ? Or Acura Part Number?
d) Fuel Systems cleaner with new gas.

Any other suggestions?
Does it look like I am heading in the right direction?

Thanks!


Figured I would update everyone:

I ended up having a valve adjustment completed and replacing my Bank 1 Sensor 1 from the codes listed above. The two codes are no longer being thrown and the Malfunction Indicator / VTM-4 Lights hav turned off. Car is no longer spuddering (check around the exhaust pipe for sound).

Started by putting in high octane gas to help clean any residue left.

Gas mileage has gone from 15.8 to about 17.5 based on 1/3 tank. I will report back after a few tanks of gas. Cost about $850 for all the work.
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235/65R17 Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza,
2004+ Headlights with H9 Bulb Conversion,
Fog Lights equipped with 9012 Bulb Conversion
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Trunk Pet Net}

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Escort 8500 X50,
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:19 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Angry VTM4, CEL, d5 blinking

So, I have a 2001 MDX and the cel and the vtm-4 lights are on. As well as the d5 light blinking.

I have gone to AutoZone and I have pulled the codes myself.
They are as follows:
p0118
p0123
p0113
p1498
p0453
p0710

It is hard to start in the morning, and it does not read the engine temp.
it doesn't shift until 3700 rpm's and here is the real kicker... It will sometimes correct everything.

I have had diag done at the dealer, and they said it was a ground issue. I have replaced the 3 major grounds. batt - body, batt - chasis?, and body - block.

I am at a loss here.

So far every sensor listed in the codes have been replaced, as well as the egr valve.

The engine temp sensor has been replaced 3x

Any thoughts?
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:03 PM   #28 (permalink)
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We also have had this problem in our 2001 MDX where the check engine light and the VTM light have both been on for some time now. The car drives alright but seems a bit hesitant like driving with the brake on. I replaced the oxygen sensor on the catalytic converter. as per the code it was giving. then about a month later again the lights come on and again I replaced the sensor. Now the lights are on again and as per my mechanics test its getting to much of a charge? and its causing the sensors to fail. He thinks it might have something to do with a faulty wire. I started thinking it might be something along the lines of the EGR valve or it might need a valve adjustment. Anyone else had similar issues? Whats the cost of a valve adjustment?
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:38 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Why are you replacing the Oxygen sensor on the catalytic converter? That's only there to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter and it rarely ever goes bad. Even when it does, it won't affect engine performance.

What you should have replaced is the pre-cat Oxygen sensor, which is the critical one since it determines your closed loop performance after the engine warms up.

Also, I see a lot of posts with somewhat of a panic when both CEL light and VTM-4 light go on at the same time. Be at ease! Most likely there is nothing wrong with your VTM-4. The light on the VTM-4 (probably code 77-1) only indicates that there is something wrong with your powertrain. That is technically correct since the engine is part of your powertrain and it is throwing a code, but your VTM-4 system is not really broken.

As for the cost of valve adjustment, you need to include a set of intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, rubber gaskets on the spark plug tubes and gaskets on the cover bolts. Those alone cost me about $90, and I was doing the job myself.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:41 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Check engine light on and VTM4 light flashing

Your mechanic doesn't know what he's doing.
What codes is it punching out?
Do the warning light disappear when you restart the car?


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