2004 MDX engine metal screeching at start

[oliver202505]

This screeching noise just last about 2 seconds at engine start. According to my thought and what I learned from this forum, the dry and frication gear inside the stater is the problem.
Take it out from the car (not so hard. 2 bolts hold it, one is visible from above, the other is invisible from above but you can feel by hand), woo, the gears are really dry and it is hard to turn free.

Clean and then grease it, as shown in pictures attached. Will put back to car tomorrow and let you guys know if it will work. Cost: $6+$3=$9.

[cl206]

Nice pics, but that is ALOT of grease

[TexasHonda]

Overhaul diagram says to use molybdenum disulphide grease. Doesn't say how much. Let forum know how this works out.

There are rubber seals that need to be installed on the mating face to keep dirt/water out.

I have same problem w/ my MDX.

thanks

[oliver202505]

put back today. NO noise anymore.
I think there is NO seal between starter/engine.

Originally Posted by TexasHonda

Overhaul diagram says to use molybdenum disulphide grease. Doesn't say how much. Let forum know how this works out.

There are rubber seals that need to be installed on the mating face to keep dirt/water out.

I have same problem w/ my MDX.

thanks

[oliver202505]

I agree. But some will go with engine gear.

Originally Posted by cl206

Nice pics, but that is ALOT of grease

[TexasHonda]

Originally Posted by oliver202505

put back today. NO noise anymore.
I think there is NO seal between starter/engine.

I was looking an installation diagram from Acura shop e-manual. I tried to create a pdf image to post, but apparently this function is disabled in manual I have.

There are two rubber strips either side of gear opening.

They may not be absolutely necessary, but that may be how grease is retained?

Thanks for posting this. I will try this repair also.

good luck

[TexasHonda]

I pulled my starter this morning and lubed the spots indicated by shop manual,.. a bit less agressively than Oliver, but hopefully enough. Shop manual is woefully short of details on removal. Following are my details.

It's a bit of pain to access the starter, but not too bad.

1) Disconnect battery negative and positive leads from battery. You will need radio code to restart your system and will lose seat presets.

2) Remove O2 Sensor connector and O2 sensor harness by releasing large bolt holding bracket to end of engine and wiring harness plastic connector. I released the ground wire connection to front cross member. O2 harness and ground wire will still be in the way but loose enough to work around.

3) Drain coolant from radiator into catch pan for reuse and disconnect coolant hoses from engine side only above starter. Tuck hose ends out of the way. You will need this access to remove electrical connections from starter.

4) Remove two 14mm socket size bolts holding starter to engine. I used a long (6") wobbly extention on upper bolt but a straight extension would have worked. I used a 3" wobbly on lower and believe it may have helped w/ alignment. Bolts were tight and I had to use a 1/2" ratchet w/ 1/2x3/8 reducer to break the bolts.

5) Disconnect primary power supply wire from starter (12mm nut). There is a main power supply wire harness connection to the starter that should be releaseable, but would not release for me. I removed a retaining nut on harness bracket to starter to release. Disconnect the small solenoid drive wire by working back/forth carefully while pulling.

6) I lubed the idler gear shaft, gear, gear holder. I used Moly EP grease.

7) Installation is reverse of removal. I used the wobbly extensions w/ paper towel holding bolt in socket to ease initial installation of bolts.

8) Don't forget to close radiator drain valve and reinstall coolant. I lost about a pint in the process, so you'll need a little to top up system.

Thanks to Oliver for "plowing new ground" by proving lube is what's needed.

Mine did not screech on first start, but a few cooler mornings should prove whether repair has worked.

good luck

[oliver202505]

Thank you for the details. I tried to upload the pdf manual which I bought at ebay but failed due to its been locked.
Let us know what happened next. Hope it solved your problem...

Originally Posted by TexasHonda

I pulled my starter this morning and lubed the spots indicated by shop manual,.. a bit less agressively than Oliver, but hopefully enough. Shop manual is woefully short of details on removal. Following are my details.

It's a bit of pain to access the starter, but not too bad.

1) Disconnect battery negative and positive leads from battery. You will need radio code to restart your system and will lose seat presets.

2) Remove O2 Sensor connector and O2 sensor harness by releasing large bolt holding bracket to end of engine and wiring harness plastic connector. I released the ground wire connection to front cross member. O2 harness and ground wire will still be in the way but loose enough to work around.

3) Drain coolant from radiator into catch pan for reuse and disconnect coolant hoses from engine side only above starter. Tuck hose ends out of the way. You will need this access to remove electrical connections from starter.

4) Remove two 14mm socket size bolts holding starter to engine. I used a long (6") wobbly extention on upper bolt but a straight extension would have worked. I used a 3" wobbly on lower and believe it may have helped w/ alignment. Bolts were tight and I had to use a 1/2" ratchet w/ 1/2x3/8 reducer to break the bolts.

5) Disconnect primary power supply wire from starter (12mm nut). There is a main power supply wire harness connection to the starter that should be releaseable, but would not release for me. I removed a retaining nut on harness bracket to starter to release. Disconnect the small solenoid drive wire by working back/forth carefully while pulling.

6) I lubed the idler gear shaft, gear, gear holder. I used Moly EP grease.

7) Installation is reverse of removal. I used the wobbly extensions w/ paper towel holding bolt in socket to ease initial installation of bolts.

8) Don't forget to close radiator drain valve and reinstall coolant. I lost about a pint in the process, so you'll need a little to top up system.

Thanks to Oliver for "plowing new ground" by proving lube is what's needed.

Mine did not screech on first start, but a few cooler mornings should prove whether repair has worked.

good luck

[SBM MDX]

Not having done this can you comment why a coolant drain is needed?

TexasHonda’s instructions are more to the point than the Shop Manual:

[TexasHonda]

Yes, I looked at those same brief instructions.

Some may disagree about necessity.

I've found there are two schools of thought about repair; one pulls everything out of the way for ease of operation and the other tries to work w/ everything in place but what absolutely must come out. I've come to lean towards " if it's in the way, get it out of the way". I hate struggling w/ interferences.

I looked at the proximity of the hoses to the starter wiring and knew from experience that removal of nut on primary starter drive cable would be difficult or impossible w/o good access, even w/ starter bolts removed. Draining coolant and removing two hose ends from engine side takes about 15-20 mins. I thought it was well worth the effort and would do the same again (hopefully not too soon!).

Interested to hear whether Oliver removed the hose ends or not?

I could not get my ebay e-manual to "print" a pdf file. I think some security function must be preventing.

good luck

[oliver202505]

No, I didn't drain the coolant. To remove the starter out of the hood, I move it down first then turn it around about 90 degree, so it can get out from the gap between coolant hoses and the engine body.

Originally Posted by TexasHonda

Yes, I looked at those same brief instructions.

Some may disagree about necessity.

I've found there are two schools of thought about repair; one pulls everything out of the way for ease of operation and the other tries to work w/ everything in place but what absolutely must come out. I've come to lean towards " if it's in the way, get it out of the way". I hate struggling w/ interferences.

I looked at the proximity of the hoses to the starter wiring and knew from experience that removal of nut on primary starter drive cable would be difficult or impossible w/o good access, even w/ starter bolts removed. Draining coolant and removing two hose ends from engine side takes about 15-20 mins. I thought it was well worth the effort and would do the same again (hopefully not too soon!).

Interested to hear whether Oliver removed the hose ends or not?

I could not get my ebay e-manual to "print" a pdf file. I think some security function must be preventing.

good luck

[SBM MDX]

Originally Posted by oliver202505

I think there is NO seal between starter/engine.

Odd you had no gaskets –

Then again the Service Manual instructs removal of them if damaged, details on cleaning the mating surfaces, but no mention of replacement. I guess this was in error???

Became curious and found P/Ns for the gaskets:

31294-RDJ-A01 Larger Gasket

31295-RDJ-A01 Smaller Gasket

[oliver202505]

May depond on the year model. Mine is 04. Is your 06?

Originally Posted by SBM MDX

Odd you had no gaskets –

Then again the Service Manual instructs removal of them if damaged, details on cleaning the mating surfaces, but no mention of replacement. I guess this was in error???

Became curious and found P/Ns for the gaskets:

31294-RDJ-A01 Larger Gasket

31295-RDJ-A01 Smaller Gasket

[SBM MDX]

Looked up P/Ns for an '04

[phins2rt]

Great write up! i tried doing this a few weeks back but the removal looked rather difficult. I may have to give it another try. The pics really help oliver. Shows exactly where to put the grease. oliver, I don' think you mentioned it but has this solved the screeching?