2004 MDX engine metal screeching at start - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
Register Home Forums Active Topics Auto Loans Photo Gallery Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance
MDXers.org is the premier Acura MDX Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average.
Old 11-06-2010, 01:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
2004 MDX engine metal screeching at start

This screeching noise just last about 2 seconds at engine start. According to my thought and what I learned from this forum, the dry and frication gear inside the stater is the problem.
Take it out from the car (not so hard. 2 bolts hold it, one is visible from above, the other is invisible from above but you can feel by hand), woo, the gears are really dry and it is hard to turn free.

Clean and then grease it, as shown in pictures attached. Will put back to car tomorrow and let you guys know if it will work. Cost: $6+$3=$9.
Attached Thumbnails
2004 MDX engine metal screeching at start-dsc03285.jpg   2004 MDX engine metal screeching at start-dsc03289.jpg   2004 MDX engine metal screeching at start-dsc03304.jpg  
oliver202505 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-06-2010, 07:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 299
Nice pics, but that is ALOT of grease
cl206 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2010, 09:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 641
Overhaul diagram says to use molybdenum disulphide grease. Doesn't say how much. Let forum know how this works out.

There are rubber seals that need to be installed on the mating face to keep dirt/water out.

I have same problem w/ my MDX.

thanks
TexasHonda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-07-2010, 01:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
put back today. NO noise anymore.
I think there is NO seal between starter/engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasHonda View Post
Overhaul diagram says to use molybdenum disulphide grease. Doesn't say how much. Let forum know how this works out.

There are rubber seals that need to be installed on the mating face to keep dirt/water out.

I have same problem w/ my MDX.

thanks
oliver202505 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-07-2010, 01:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
I agree. But some will go with engine gear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cl206 View Post
Nice pics, but that is ALOT of grease
oliver202505 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-07-2010, 09:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by oliver202505 View Post
put back today. NO noise anymore.
I think there is NO seal between starter/engine.
I was looking an installation diagram from Acura shop e-manual. I tried to create a pdf image to post, but apparently this function is disabled in manual I have.

There are two rubber strips either side of gear opening.

They may not be absolutely necessary, but that may be how grease is retained?

Thanks for posting this. I will try this repair also.

good luck
TexasHonda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-07-2010, 02:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 641
I pulled my starter this morning and lubed the spots indicated by shop manual,.. a bit less agressively than Oliver, but hopefully enough. Shop manual is woefully short of details on removal. Following are my details.

It's a bit of pain to access the starter, but not too bad.

1) Disconnect battery negative and positive leads from battery. You will need radio code to restart your system and will lose seat presets.

2) Remove O2 Sensor connector and O2 sensor harness by releasing large bolt holding bracket to end of engine and wiring harness plastic connector. I released the ground wire connection to front cross member. O2 harness and ground wire will still be in the way but loose enough to work around.

3) Drain coolant from radiator into catch pan for reuse and disconnect coolant hoses from engine side only above starter. Tuck hose ends out of the way. You will need this access to remove electrical connections from starter.

4) Remove two 14mm socket size bolts holding starter to engine. I used a long (6") wobbly extention on upper bolt but a straight extension would have worked. I used a 3" wobbly on lower and believe it may have helped w/ alignment. Bolts were tight and I had to use a 1/2" ratchet w/ 1/2x3/8 reducer to break the bolts.

5) Disconnect primary power supply wire from starter (12mm nut). There is a main power supply wire harness connection to the starter that should be releaseable, but would not release for me. I removed a retaining nut on harness bracket to starter to release. Disconnect the small solenoid drive wire by working back/forth carefully while pulling.

6) I lubed the idler gear shaft, gear, gear holder. I used Moly EP grease.

7) Installation is reverse of removal. I used the wobbly extensions w/ paper towel holding bolt in socket to ease initial installation of bolts.

8) Don't forget to close radiator drain valve and reinstall coolant. I lost about a pint in the process, so you'll need a little to top up system.

Thanks to Oliver for "plowing new ground" by proving lube is what's needed.

Mine did not screech on first start, but a few cooler mornings should prove whether repair has worked.

good luck
TexasHonda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-08-2010, 01:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
Thank you for the details. I tried to upload the pdf manual which I bought at ebay but failed due to its been locked.
Let us know what happened next. Hope it solved your problem...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasHonda View Post
I pulled my starter this morning and lubed the spots indicated by shop manual,.. a bit less agressively than Oliver, but hopefully enough. Shop manual is woefully short of details on removal. Following are my details.

It's a bit of pain to access the starter, but not too bad.

1) Disconnect battery negative and positive leads from battery. You will need radio code to restart your system and will lose seat presets.

2) Remove O2 Sensor connector and O2 sensor harness by releasing large bolt holding bracket to end of engine and wiring harness plastic connector. I released the ground wire connection to front cross member. O2 harness and ground wire will still be in the way but loose enough to work around.

3) Drain coolant from radiator into catch pan for reuse and disconnect coolant hoses from engine side only above starter. Tuck hose ends out of the way. You will need this access to remove electrical connections from starter.

4) Remove two 14mm socket size bolts holding starter to engine. I used a long (6") wobbly extention on upper bolt but a straight extension would have worked. I used a 3" wobbly on lower and believe it may have helped w/ alignment. Bolts were tight and I had to use a 1/2" ratchet w/ 1/2x3/8 reducer to break the bolts.

5) Disconnect primary power supply wire from starter (12mm nut). There is a main power supply wire harness connection to the starter that should be releaseable, but would not release for me. I removed a retaining nut on harness bracket to starter to release. Disconnect the small solenoid drive wire by working back/forth carefully while pulling.

6) I lubed the idler gear shaft, gear, gear holder. I used Moly EP grease.

7) Installation is reverse of removal. I used the wobbly extensions w/ paper towel holding bolt in socket to ease initial installation of bolts.

8) Don't forget to close radiator drain valve and reinstall coolant. I lost about a pint in the process, so you'll need a little to top up system.

Thanks to Oliver for "plowing new ground" by proving lube is what's needed.

Mine did not screech on first start, but a few cooler mornings should prove whether repair has worked.

good luck
oliver202505 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-08-2010, 12:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
Super Senior Member

 
SBM MDX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,087
Not having done this can you comment why a coolant drain is needed?

TexasHonda’s instructions are more to the point than the Shop Manual:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Starter RR - Lube.pdf (731.5 KB, 698 views)
__________________
'06 MDX
Touring/NAV/RES
midnightMDX’s ’01–’06 FAQs
SBM MDX is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-08-2010, 01:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 641
Yes, I looked at those same brief instructions.

Some may disagree about necessity.

I've found there are two schools of thought about repair; one pulls everything out of the way for ease of operation and the other tries to work w/ everything in place but what absolutely must come out. I've come to lean towards " if it's in the way, get it out of the way". I hate struggling w/ interferences.

I looked at the proximity of the hoses to the starter wiring and knew from experience that removal of nut on primary starter drive cable would be difficult or impossible w/o good access, even w/ starter bolts removed. Draining coolant and removing two hose ends from engine side takes about 15-20 mins. I thought it was well worth the effort and would do the same again (hopefully not too soon!).

Interested to hear whether Oliver removed the hose ends or not?

I could not get my ebay e-manual to "print" a pdf file. I think some security function must be preventing.

good luck
TexasHonda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2010, 12:02 AM   #11 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
No, I didn't drain the coolant. To remove the starter out of the hood, I move it down first then turn it around about 90 degree, so it can get out from the gap between coolant hoses and the engine body.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasHonda View Post
Yes, I looked at those same brief instructions.

Some may disagree about necessity.

I've found there are two schools of thought about repair; one pulls everything out of the way for ease of operation and the other tries to work w/ everything in place but what absolutely must come out. I've come to lean towards " if it's in the way, get it out of the way". I hate struggling w/ interferences.

I looked at the proximity of the hoses to the starter wiring and knew from experience that removal of nut on primary starter drive cable would be difficult or impossible w/o good access, even w/ starter bolts removed. Draining coolant and removing two hose ends from engine side takes about 15-20 mins. I thought it was well worth the effort and would do the same again (hopefully not too soon!).

Interested to hear whether Oliver removed the hose ends or not?

I could not get my ebay e-manual to "print" a pdf file. I think some security function must be preventing.

good luck
oliver202505 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2010, 01:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
Super Senior Member

 
SBM MDX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,087
Quote:
Originally Posted by oliver202505 View Post
I think there is NO seal between starter/engine.
Odd you had no gaskets –

Then again the Service Manual instructs removal of them if damaged, details on cleaning the mating surfaces, but no mention of replacement. I guess this was in error???

Became curious and found P/Ns for the gaskets:

31294-RDJ-A01 Larger Gasket

31295-RDJ-A01 Smaller Gasket
__________________
'06 MDX
Touring/NAV/RES
midnightMDX’s ’01–’06 FAQs
SBM MDX is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2010, 05:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
May depond on the year model. Mine is 04. Is your 06?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SBM MDX View Post
Odd you had no gaskets –

Then again the Service Manual instructs removal of them if damaged, details on cleaning the mating surfaces, but no mention of replacement. I guess this was in error???

Became curious and found P/Ns for the gaskets:

31294-RDJ-A01 Larger Gasket

31295-RDJ-A01 Smaller Gasket
oliver202505 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2010, 05:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
Super Senior Member

 
SBM MDX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,087
Looked up P/Ns for an '04
__________________
'06 MDX
Touring/NAV/RES
midnightMDX’s ’01–’06 FAQs
SBM MDX is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2010, 06:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
Super Senior Member

 
phins2rt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 5,938
Great write up! i tried doing this a few weeks back but the removal looked rather difficult. I may have to give it another try. The pics really help oliver. Shows exactly where to put the grease. oliver, I don' think you mentioned it but has this solved the screeching?
__________________
08 X Sport/Ent -- Sterling Gray/Ebony
03 X Touring/RES -- Taffeta White/Saddle

02 Honda S2000 -- Berlina Black/Black
99 Acura RL -- Naples Gold Metallic/Parchment
12 Toyota Avalon Limited
phins2rt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Random Question

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:32 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2
Copyright 2000-2010 MDXers.org. All Rights Reserved.