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Old 02-11-2009, 12:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Brake pad replacement

Can I replace just the brake pads if I don't have any other issues with braking. I have 55000 miles on them and nothing has been done to the brakes. Dealer says the rotors need to be turned and I'm thinking not. The car brakes smooth. I just want to replace pads only.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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are you doing the replacement yourself?

but, after that many miles, the surface of the rotor is probably not smooth...

another way is to measure w/ a dial indicator and look for "lateral runout" if there's runout, you may experience some wobbling when you apply your brakes

but you stated that your brakes are not vibrating when you apply it now... you can scuff up the rotor surface w/ some sandpaper, then rinse it off w/ some brakeclean, and slap on the new brake pads

if you notice some wobbling after your pad replacement, time to remove and resurface the rotors

ps: don't forget to clean and relube the sliding caliper pins so the caliper would not bind and seize your pads on to the rotor
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm hopping on this thread too.

In the past for myself, unless there was damage to the rotors, I would only change the brake pads. I have 63k myself and just bought my 2005 and during the pre-inspection, all 4 brake pads were found to need replacing. So this is something I'm interested in hearing from others.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by notmycar
are you doing the replacement yourself?

but, after that many miles, the surface of the rotor is probably not smooth...

another way is to measure w/ a dial indicator and look for "lateral runout" if there's runout, you may experience some wobbling when you apply your brakes

but you stated that your brakes are not vibrating when you apply it now... you can scuff up the rotor surface w/ some sandpaper, then rinse it off w/ some brakeclean, and slap on the new brake pads

if you notice some wobbling after your pad replacement, time to remove and resurface the rotors

ps: don't forget to clean and relube the sliding caliper pins so the caliper would not bind and seize your pads on to the rotor
Great info. Thanks.
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Old 02-11-2009, 06:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Brake pad replacement

Thanks for the reply and the exploded view drawing. I am hoping to do this myself. Since I've never had work done on them before, I thought all I have to do is remove the old, push the pistons back without damaging them and install new pads. A year ago, I had the pads inspected at an Acura dealer, I was told that I had 40% left on the pads. BTW, it's an 04 and I'm the original owner.
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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ok, yea basically that's all you have to do if you know your rotors are smooth and not gouged yet from metal-to-metal contact

usually the inner pads wear out faster since this is a sliding caliper so I hope you're not hearing the brake squeal warnings yet

and this is a twin-piston caliper so I'd push the pistons back in the caliper slower than a single piston setup using something like this tool:



of course you can use just a c clamp w/ the old brake pad as a block to push the pistons back into the caliper

another site to look at since it's almost similar procedure is this: (yea, it's a subarau, but its similar setup)

http://www.weblumen.com/subaru/brakepads.html

some discrepancies about his procedure

i'd use a coat hanger instead of a bungee, but that's just preference

he says to remove the cap on the master; i'd just loosen it and leave the cap on before pushing the pistons back in

LOL, he's using the silicone brake grease incorrectly! you're supposed to be applying that on the sliding caliper pins (aka the sub pins on the caliper bracket from the diagram i posted earlier)

for the pad-shim sammich, use the following from any parts store usually a blue or red gooey compound:






if you do need to remove the rotors to get them resurfaced, i'd grab the following + a penetrant called PB Blaster to loosen that dumb screw on the rotor before trying to remove it

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Old 02-12-2009, 06:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The reason they turn the disc is to ensure that it is smooth, thus maximizing contact with the pad (which is also smooth). If the rotor is grooved you will reduce the braking capability because the new pads won't seat properly. If you intend to keep it a few years I would get them turned
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Old 05-08-2009, 09:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by notmycar
ok, yea basically that's all you have to do if you know your rotors are smooth and not gouged yet from metal-to-metal contact

usually the inner pads wear out faster since this is a sliding caliper so I hope you're not hearing the brake squeal warnings yet

and this is a twin-piston caliper so I'd push the pistons back in the caliper slower than a single piston setup using something like this tool:



of course you can use just a c clamp w/ the old brake pad as a block to push the pistons back into the caliper

another site to look at since it's almost similar procedure is this: (yea, it's a subarau, but its similar setup)

http://www.weblumen.com/subaru/brakepads.html

some discrepancies about his procedure

i'd use a coat hanger instead of a bungee, but that's just preference

he says to remove the cap on the master; i'd just loosen it and leave the cap on before pushing the pistons back in

LOL, he's using the silicone brake grease incorrectly! you're supposed to be applying that on the sliding caliper pins (aka the sub pins on the caliper bracket from the diagram i posted earlier)

for the pad-shim sammich, use the following from any parts store usually a blue or red gooey compound:






if you do need to remove the rotors to get them resurfaced, i'd grab the following + a penetrant called PB Blaster to loosen that dumb screw on the rotor before trying to remove it

I'm replacing the rotors on my 03 Touring, do I need to take off the spindle nut as the shop manual says? Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2009, 01:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
I'm replacing the rotors on my 03 Touring, do I need to take off the spindle nut as the shop manual says? Thanks.
what shop manual is that? can you post a pic or instructions?

based on the exploded diagram, u just need to remove the caliper- 8 x1.oo mm bolts (27 lb-ft), retract piston back into the caliper while you're there, suspend caliper outta the way w/ some coathanger/bungee cord

and caliper bracket...14 x 1.55 mm bolts (is the torque specs right on that diagram?!?! 101 lbs-ft ?!?!)

then those 2 cumbersome 6 mm brake disc retaining flat screws w/ the impact screwdriver, pb blaster lubricant, and a few curse words if necessary...

nothing about removing that HUGE axle/spindle nut

here's a good link, just for rotor replacement:

http://www.acuraworld.com/forums/f40...2002-rl-71843/

PS: some people get away w/ only 1 resurfacing of the original rotors before showing signs of warping... so they just go ahead and replace the rotors outright since they're ahead of the game by saving labor cost via DIY... since i know how to do brakes, i just see if the old rotors are still "true" & if not, off they goto the shop for resurfacing or consider getting new rotors

ps: and awesome guide to rear brakes of an acura, but not the mdx, involving the only difference in the rears: turning-of-the piston into the caliper & possibly the parking brake mechanism...

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...-photos-67976/
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Old 05-08-2009, 02:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Plus One...The axle nut does not need to be removed for a brake job. Don't go there unless you have wheel bearing issues.
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by polyian
Plus One...The axle nut does not need to be removed for a brake job. Don't go there unless you have wheel bearing issues.
Polyian thanks.

Do you have any idea what the torque setting is for the caliper bracket? I have an 03 Touring. I'll look again in the manual.
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Interestingly, my 02 Acura service manual with a picture like the one above indicates 80ft/lbs for the same caliper bolt shown above with 101 ft/lbs.

My Manual is a genuine Acura manual for the 01/02 model years. I don't know what the above one is. For the 03 you can always check with a dealer to be sure. 20 ft/lbs is a big difference.
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Old 05-08-2009, 08:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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notmycar,

In the MDX 2003 shop manual on page 19-13 it says "If the disc is beyond the service limit for refinishing, replace it (see step 6 on page 18-11 (front) and on page 19-20 it says the same for the rear, but to go to step 7 on page 18-23). Both step 6 and 7 start with remove the spindle nut.

This is whats causing all the confusion.
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Old 05-08-2009, 08:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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polyian,

thanks for the response. I just found it in my shop manual after looking for it for days.

It says 101lbf-ft. I kept browsing right over it.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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2004 MDX I had the front pads removed and replaced, They lightly turned the rotors and also changed the brake fluid. The MDX had ~ 40K miles. the dealer charged $ 350. The dealer said after 5 years 45K miles the fluid should be changed. I do agree.
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