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1st Oil Change, 2012 MDX - when and what oil?

78K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  voau 
#1 ·
Hi MDXers!

I have a 2012 MDX (tech) with 4,600 miles on it.
The oil level is at 40%

Should I wait for the car to tell me to change the oil (I think when it hit's 20%) or should I go ahead and change it now?

If so, what weight and brand oil do you recommend?
Also, should I get the filter from an Acura dealer or use an aftermarket? Any suggestions?


Thanks in advance !!!
 
#2 ·
Wait until the MID tells you <15%.

Any weight is fine for the Bay Area. 5w-30 is the easiest to find, but 5w-20 is what your OM states to use.

As for brand? Any is fine, as long as you see the API certification on the bottle (SN as of 2011), and even some that don't have it. You can use synthetic, dino, or a combination of both. You can mix and match and switch back and forth at anytime.
 
#4 ·
Should I wait for the car to tell me to change the oil
Yes.

what weight and brand oil do you recommend?
5W20, as specified in the owners manual.

You can use synthetic or a synthetic blend or conventional oil. Synthetic provides benefits of better resistance to breakdown when hot, and better flow characteristics when cold; the only disadvantage is that it's more expensive, but it's not all that more expensive, since you can buy 5-quart jugs of synthetic oil at Walmart for $20-30. I stick to the major brands, not house brands or off brands. I get 5-quart jugs of full synthetic from Walmart and usually wind up spending $20-24 for Q-Power (Quaker State's synthetic) or Pennzoil Platinum. (Mobil 1 is also good and is usually around $26-28).

should I get the filter from an Acura dealer or use an aftermarket? Any suggestions?
When buying filters (including air filter and cabin filter as well as oil filter), I stick with the Honda/Acura brand because I do think there are quality differences vs aftermarket. Most dealer parts departments will give you a good discount if you buy 3 or 6 or 12 filters at a time. You can also get good prices on parts by ordering from the guy pictured below, who sponsors the mdxers site (don't forget to use his coupon codes for free or reduced shipping).

 
#29 ·
Wow! This thread got out of control.... Ha!
Thank you all that provided feedback to my original questions.



Yes.


5W20, as specified in the owners manual.

You can use synthetic or a synthetic blend or conventional oil. Synthetic provides benefits of better resistance to breakdown when hot, and better flow characteristics when cold; the only disadvantage is that it's more expensive, but it's not all that more expensive, since you can buy 5-quart jugs of synthetic oil at Walmart for $20-30. I stick to the major brands, not house brands or off brands. I get 5-quart jugs of full synthetic from Walmart and usually wind up spending $20-24 for Q-Power (Quaker State's synthetic) or Pennzoil Platinum. (Mobil 1 is also good and is usually around $26-28).


When buying filters (including air filter and cabin filter as well as oil filter), I stick with the Honda/Acura brand because I do think there are quality differences vs aftermarket. Most dealer parts departments will give you a good discount if you buy 3 or 6 or 12 filters at a time. You can also get good prices on parts by ordering from the guy pictured below, who sponsors the mdxers site (don't forget to use his coupon codes for free or reduced shipping).

 
#5 ·
2012 MDX Oil

Same question, but different: I've normally (European cars until now) changed oil at 5000 miles to Mobil 1, and then every 10000 miles after that. And I plan to do this with the new MDX, BUT...

I'm not comfortable with the 5-20 recommendation. Thinking 0-30, or even 0-40; living in Arizona, and driving somewhat enthusiastically.

Any wisdom to impart?
 
#6 ·
Same question, but different: I've normally (European cars until now) changed oil at 5000 miles to Mobil 1, and then every 10000 miles after that. And I plan to do this with the new MDX, BUT...

I'm not comfortable with the 5-20 recommendation. Thinking 0-30, or even 0-40; living in Arizona, and driving somewhat enthusiastically.

Any wisdom to impart?
Acura recommends 5W20 viscosity. If you use a viscosity other than what's recommended in the owner's and service manuals, and you have a problem with your engine, they could blame it on the oil viscosity and refuse to honor the warranty for the repair.

The warranty is very clear about this. Here's the wording in the relevant section of the warranty for my 2004 MDX:

Acura 2004 Warranties said:
These Warranties Do Not Cover
The failure of any part or accessory due to:
- Abuse, misuse, accidental damage, or acts of God.
- Improper installation or maintenance.
- A low fluid level or the use of a fluid other than specified by Acura.
- The installation of any part that is not equal to the original in quality of materials or workmanship.
- Use of the vehicle in competition or racing events.
Note, also, that if you change the oil at intervals longer than specified (like 10000 miles, assuming it's beyond what the MID recommends), that too could be grounds for exclusion from warranty coverage.

Take care of your car as specified, including maintenance using the recommended viscosity and service intervals, and you shouldn't have any problems with the warranty. Don't, and you're taking a risk that you might not want to be taking.
 
#7 ·
I'm aware. And it must be true that the 5-20 requirement works, since I don't see MDX's by the side of the road with blown engines every day...

However, I remain confused by Honda's insistence on such a narrow range of viscosity, as well as the recommendation for conventional oil. It's a well-know fact that synthetic oil is superior to conventional (although it could likewise be argued that todays conventional oils are greatly improved over those of ten or twenty years ago), and that adding to viscosity range can only help, especially at higher temperatures, detergency and long-term stability notwithstanding.

Do all of you run conventional oil in your MDXs?
 
#9 ·
I remain confused by Honda's insistence on such a narrow range of viscosity
It depends on the model of car. The owner's and service manuals recommend viscosities based on outside temperature. On some Acura/Honda cars, they recommend more than one viscosity, typically (but not always) with the thicker viscosity covering a higher temperature range and the thinner viscosity covering a lower temperature range. On my other Acura, they recommend 5W30 as preferred at all temperatures, and 10W30 for temperatures above 18F; in other words, below 18F, only 5W30 should be used, and above 18F, 5W30 is preferred but 10W30 is also acceptable. On my previous Acura, they recommended 10W30 at temperatures above -2F, and 5W30 at temperatures below 32F; in other words, below -2F, only 5W30 should be used, from -2F to 32F, either 5W30 or 10W30 should be used, and above 32F, only 10W30 should be used.

as well as the recommendation for conventional oil. It's a well-know fact that synthetic oil is superior to conventional (although it could likewise be argued that todays conventional oils are greatly improved over those of ten or twenty years ago), and that adding to viscosity range can only help, especially at higher temperatures, detergency and long-term stability notwithstanding.
I don't know where you got this information. There is no such recommendation for conventional oil, or any prohibition against synthetic oil.

Here's what it says in the owner's manual for my 2004 MDX:

Acura 2004 MDX Owner's Manual said:
Synthetic Oil
You may use a synthetic motor oil if it meets the same requirements given for a conventional motor oil: it displays the API Certification Seal and it is the proper weight. You must follow the oil and filter change intervals given in the maintenance schedule.
Do all of you run conventional oil in your MDXs?
Many of us, including myself, use synthetic oil in our MDXs. Again, it's fine according to the Acura owner's manual. (And so is conventional oil.) As you undoubtedly are aware, synthetic oil provides advantages of better resistance to breakdown at high temperatures, and better flow characteristics at low temperatures.
 
#11 ·
I'm not sure why they're running conventional in these as well....Honda has switched most of their vehicles to synthetic ('12 Pilot for example) . Are the latest Acura products still running conventional? Maybe they're just going to synthetic as the redesigns roll out.

I have quite a few 200k+ miles vehicles under my belt using conventional oil and 5k-7k mile intervals (going back to my first new car which was a 1992). I prefer to run synthetic at 10k intervals just to go longer between service. I'm sure the conventional will be fine with the intervals setup by the MID. We're at 6,500 miles now and just dropped to 30%. I'm getting it changed this week because it's convenient and I won't have to mess with it through the holiday/travel season.
 
#12 ·
Honda has switched most of their vehicles to synthetic ('12 Pilot for example) .
This is absolutely not true. There is no requirement that the 2012 Pilot use synthetic. What it says in the 2012 Pilot owner's manual is, "Always use a premium-grade 0W-20 detergent oil displaying the API Certification Seal." and "Make sure the API Certification Seal says 'For Gasoline Engines.'" No mention of synthetic oil.

The reason some people were making this claim is, they are recommending 0W20 viscosity oil for the 2012 Pilot. 0W20 is available in full synthetic oil and in synthetic blends, but so far (since it's relatively new as a manufacturer recommendation) may be difficult or impossible to find in conventional oil. But there is NO prohibition against using synthetic blends or conventional oil for the 2012 Pilot.

I prefer to run synthetic at 10k intervals just to go longer between service.
I would never, never, NEVER do that, and never recommend doing that to anyone else. Not just because it could invalidate the warranty (as noted above), but also because it's just a bad idea. Oil accumulates particulates and other foreign matter at the same rate regardless of whether it's conventional or synthetic, and that's a major reason it needs changing. When oil manufacturers first introduced synthetic oil on the market, they claimed that synthetic could go longer between changes, but they have backed away from such claims. All the major oil manufacturers now say that you should not exceed the car manufacturer's recommendations for the interval between changes, but that synthetic oil will let you go up to the full recommended interval.

I just think that's really bad advice. The oil change interval is even more important than the type of oil you use. Heck, I'm aware of all the benefits of synthetic oil (which is why I use it in all my cars), but if you told me I had to either use conventional oil changed at the recommended intervals, or synthetic oil changed at intervals that exceeded Acura's recommendations, I would stick with conventional oils, despite the advantages of synthetics. That's how important the oil change intervals are.
 
#13 ·
I'm glad to see that none of you buy into the "every 3000 miles" interval. I think that the oil companies have backed down on the interval claims, not because they've "wised up", but more likely to sell more oil!

My experience with engine failure under warranty has been that, IF there is suspicion of neglect, then an analysis is ordered in order to determine if the engine was run without sufficient lubrication (low oil, no oil, not changed), and serves to assess the quality of the oil remaining in the engine (metal, dirt, coolant, high temperature). I've not heard of an analysis which reveals the viscosity range of the oil.

Thank You all. I'm going 0-30 Mobil 1, and I'll change it when the car says to, without extending the interval to 10000 miles.
 
#16 ·
My dad's 1995 Camry V6 just hit 450,000 miles original motor, and you know what oil he used? Plain ol' conventional oil changed every 7500 miles. Heck, I remember some times he would even go as far as 15,000 miles.

Now I'm not saying the MDX is the same, but honestly it doesn't hurt to follow the recommendation by the manufacturer.

I personally use Mobil 5W-20 full synthetic and just change with the maintenance minder, usually when it hits 10%.
 
#17 ·
Looks like a typical CYA statement which is required by everyone these days. I've never seen any documented data that says you can't safely go longer between changes on a synthetic or blend. However, if you don't want to risk possibly voiding the warranty then you pretty much can't during warranty. Yes you have blends in 0W-20...I would treat them the same as the synthetic...certainly capable of much longer intervals. My personal limit of 10k is maintaining filter integrity. I think the oil itself could go much longer (particularly full synthetic) but the filters aren't necessarily designed for that long of a ride.

The odds of ruining an engine during warranty due to extended OCI are higher than hitting that powerball last week. But there's always a risk of a bum motor going out regardless...and that's what you have to worry about during the warranty. No doubt a manufacturer would love to find someone else at fault besides their shoddy production.
 
#19 ·
Looks like a typical CYA statement which is required by everyone these days.
So let's see... you claim that Honda requires synthetic oil for the Pilot, but that is clearly and convincingly disproved by quoting the wording in the owner's manual. So you try to bluff your way out by saying "If you don't have a conventional option...sounds like it's synthetic" when that isn't a true picture either. :rolleyes:

Then you deny that oil manufacturers recommend changing synthetics using the interval recommended by the car manufacturer. This too is clearly and convincingly disproved by quoting the wording on the Mobil 1 website. So yet again, your statements are disproved by information that anyone can verify. So you try to bluff your way out by saying "oh it's a CYA statement". :rolleyes:

Maybe you should just admit that you were wrong. It happens - everyone can be wrong once in a while. There's no shame in admitting it. Heck, I've done it myself (example). The only shame is when someone is obviously, indisputably wrong but absolutely refuses to admit it. Sometimes they even throw out distractions and bluffs with the hope that nobody will notice that what they said was wrong. Anything other than simply admitting they were wrong. Yeah, there are some people who are like that on the internet... :)
 
#22 ·
"Quote: Originally Posted by skinny2 I prefer to run synthetic at 10k intervals just to go longer between service."
"I would never, never, NEVER do that, and never recommend doing that to anyone else." - Nsxtasy

Couldn't agree more!! I have a few buddies that have BMW's and their telling me "I only have to change it every 10-15". Unbelievable. So unhealthy for the engine, that's a NEVER. Heck, I even run synthetic in my lawnmower..
 
#25 ·
And there were people 15 years ago that would NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER go more than 3k miles between changes. I prefer to use science...do an oil anaysis if you're not comfortable with it. 10k changes are becoming the norm...pretty much all Toyota/Nissan are already there. Looks like Hondas and Acuras are on their way. There's really not much of an argument if the oil is tested and within spec. It's a whopping $25. Try it.

**For those with the inability to comprehend the words as written above....this post is not recommending you extend the OCI on your MDX beyond that which is recommended by Acura. Doing so will most likely result in massive premature destruction of these obviously fragile powerplants.
 
#26 ·
Have any of you ever cut open an oil filter at 5,000 miles? I'm sorry but an oil filter can not properly clean til 10,000 miles . Skinny, no offense but you are making yourself look like a complete ass..
 
#27 ·
I'll gladly accept the title of "ass" over an "uneducated dolt". Statements like yours above about filter life is certainly bordering on nonsense. You think all these manufacturers would install filters with half the life of their recommended intervals? You think oil analysis is voo-doo? What have you found inside a cut-open oil filter that convinced you it wasn't working properly and couldn't possibly last 10k miles?
 
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