My 02 MDX with 184,000 km has the infamous suspension clunk when traveling over small bumps and slow speeds. It is not noticeable while turning, accelerating, braking, or at higher speeds. After hours of searching the web and this forum I think I have narrowed down the problem to 4 or 5 likely culprits.
1. Stabilizer bushings
2. Stabilizer end links
3. Tie rods
4. Lower control arms (i.e. compliance bushing, ball joints, control arm bushing)
5. Bad strut/ strut mount
I would prefer to diagnose the problem, rather than just throw parts at it. I can't detect any movement in the tie rods when trying to shake the wheel.
good luck. I've read compliance bushings can also be the culprit. My 04 with 130k has had the clunk for a long time. I had the struts replaced and stabilizer links recently replaced and it did not go away. I tried to change the stabilizer bushings myself and unfortunately could only get one side done (rear ac line is in the way).
My 04 is starting to make a lot of strange noises (heat shield death rattle) and have learned to live with it.
It seems like a lot of people start with the stabilizer links, but it doesn't end up solving their "clunk" problem. Maybe its because these are the easiest to replace?
The compliance bushings are part of (pressed into) the lower control arm. Most people opt to change the whole control arm for convenience. This will probably be my last option since it's the most expensive and I can't see any significant tears in any of the bushings.
I have this infamous clunk in the rear of my 03 that is working up to 148,000 miles. I also have the very annoying heat shield rattle. The clunk issue is exactly as describled, over small bumps at low speeds. Hollow sound and doesn't seem in any way to take away from the still good handling of the vehicle. Please report if a fix is found. Thanks...Matt
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I finally got around to changing the stabilizer bushings and I am happy to report it was a total success!!! I must admit I was skeptical, but after swapping them out the front end clunk is completely gone.
As mentioned before, the driver's side was a bit frustrating due to the A/C lines being in the way, but I managed to get it out with nothing but a simple box end wrench. No fancy socket adapters or joints required. I just laid straight on my back with my head towards the front of the vehicle and I could wrap both hands around and managed to turn the bolt 1/8 turn each time using the closed end of the wrench. About an hour to do the drivers side.
I would suggest anyone with the same problem start with this option first since the parts are so cheap and its an easy DIY.
Sorry to re-open this thread, but I have a quick ??? Can anyone tell me what the exact part and/or part number is? I asked the Honda dealer for front stabilizer bushings and he didn't have a clue what I was talking about...
Here's how to look up the part numbers and prices.
1. Go to the website for Tim at Acura of Peoria by clicking here.
2. Enter all your car's information in the boxes under "Know the Vehicle?" and click SELECT.
3. Click on CHASSIS.
4. Click on KNUCKLE.
You'll see all the front suspension parts with part numbers and prices. The bushings are noted as BUSH. You might want to replace all the bushings as long as you're in there.
Note that the diagram says a quantity of 1 bushing is required, but that's one per side, or a total of two. (Some of the other suspension part numbers are different for left vs right, but the bushings are the same.)
If you decide to order your parts from Tim's website, don't forget to use his coupon codes (which you can find here) for discounts on shipping.
I'm having the same "clunk" that I hear a low speed going over small bumps and it is inconsistent. My MDX is a 2007 with 140k miles. Looks like most of the problems in this thread were from the earlier generation. Is this still a problem in the 2007-2013?
I can't tell for sure that my noise is coming from the suspension area, so I am going to try to check to make sure my motor mounts are not broken also.
My front suspension 2007 MDX feels loose, and I would like to tighten it up.
Can someone help me in what common parts need to be changed in front suspension.
Here is what I think:
2 x 51320-S0X-C01 LINK ASSY., FR. STABILIZER @$16.15
1 x 51210-STX-A02 KNUCKLE, R. FR. @$115.60
1 x 51215-STX-A02 KNUCKLE, L. FR. @$115.60
My front suspension 2007 MDX feels loose, and I would like to tighten it up.
Can someone help me in what common parts need to be changed in front suspension.
Here is what I think:
2 x 51320-S0X-C01 LINK ASSY., FR. STABILIZER @$16.15
1 x 51210-STX-A02 KNUCKLE, R. FR. @$115.60
1 x 51215-STX-A02 KNUCKLE, L. FR. @$115.60
I highly doubt you need new knuckle assemblies unless of course they are cracked somewhere?
Here are the part numbers you need to refreshen the sway bar. If you shop around you can get all of these parts for under $50 bucks from Acura. I got mine for $49.43 @ DCH Honda of Temecula.
2 x 51320-S0X-C01
2 x 51306-STX-A12
Another bump. Looks like this is a very common problem on the 2007 X with higher mileage.
Anyone have success eliminating the clunk/rattle? If so, exactly what parts did you replace? and was it a DIY project? Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
I had this same problem and when I replaced the parts i noted above(2007 MDX), the clunking was gone. No special tools are needed to replace the bushings. Space is limited and rust is always a problem, so be ready to deal with some stubborn nuts and bolts. My sway bar bushings weren't siezed, but space was limited. The main issue is dealing with the endlinks since the nut seems to always weld itself to the bolt. Check out the vid i posted on how to remove these endlinks: 01-03 Acura CL/TL sway bar endlink help - YouTube
I did this on a CL, but the method is still the same when tackling the endlinks on the MDX. It was actually easier on the MDX since the endlinks are not located underneath the car.
Let me guess, the driver side? The passenger side has a 10mm bolt blocking the way to get to the rear bolt of the sway bar bushing bracket. That 10mm bolt is holding a pair of ac lines. After removing that bolt you have enough space to wedge a 1/2in drive 14mm socket and wrench. As for the stuborn rusted endlink bushings. Just seperate them with a pickle fork and use a pair of vice grips to hold the ball part of the joint, while using a 17mm socket on the other side to remove the rusted nut. I highly recommend using some kind of penetrating oil a few hours prior before doing the job. Braker bars are a must as these rusted links are a pain to remove using just a socket and rachet.
Another bump. Looks like this is a very common problem on the 2007 X with higher mileage.
Anyone have success eliminating the clunk/rattle? If so, exactly what parts did you replace? and was it a DIY project? Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
Another cure for front end noises - I have been living with a rattle in the driver side front suspension for a while that I could not diagnose. It was only present when driving at low speed on a bumpy surface, and was slowly getting worse.
Replaced the sway bar end links - nope. Replaced the sway bar bushings - nope. Replaced the lower control arms - nope. The front struts had been replaced about 30K back, I figured it was a bit early for one of them to fail but it seemed like the only remaining possibility. I was about to order a new set of struts but since I was tired of throwing parts at it, I decided to remove the strut and confirm that it really was the problem.
I got the strut out, and found that I could reproduce the rattle by shaking the whole stut/spring assembly. The rattle was coming from under the top spring seat, not the strut. The repair manual shows a stack up of the bump stop, dust cover, dust cover plate, a rubber ring, the top spring seat, a bearing, then the top mounting plate, a washer, and finally the nut that holds it all together. All it took to cure the rattle was tightening the nut on top, it looks like the shop that installed the struts hadn't properly torqued it. Put it all back together, took it for a test drive, SUCCESS!
The good news is that it is easy to check for this without taking the strut out - just remove the cover plate over the wiper mechanism so you can get to the top of the strut, then check that the top nut has been torqued properly.
I have the same issue with my 2001 MDX $140k. I also notice the driver side of the car is about half inch lower than the passenger side. do I need to replace the frount Strut?
Don't mean to dig up an old one but I to had a mysterious rattle appear about a month after rebuilding the entire front end. Turns out it was the nut on the tip of the strut shaft had backed off as noted above. Last thing I checked of course....
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