Have you tried liquid wrench or PB blaster ? You can also try a little heat but you'll have to be careful of the wheel.

 

Have you tried liquid wrench or PB blaster ? You can also try a little heat but you'll have to be careful of the wheel.

I have tried PB blaster. However, Since the lug nut is most likely cross threaded it isn't doing anything.

 

I have tried PB blaster. However, Since the lug nut is most likely cross threaded it isn't doing anything.

You should be able to back off the nut even if it is cross threaded. After removing nut run a chase down the threads.

G

 

You should be able to back off the nut even if it is cross threaded. After removing nut run a chase down the threads.

G

I doubt I will be able to back the lug nut off. However, if I am succesfull, I will go over and rethread/clean them up...


Does anybody know about replacing wheel studs?

 

Unless you really kept right on going after noticeing resistance you should have no trouble backing off.



G

 

Bolt is ****ed.....I have turned a few wrenches in the past and I know the bolt is toast..... Anyone have experience with replacing the wheel stud.. Please speak up, I need help.

 

Unless you have an extensive collection of tools, this is not going to happen for you.

Suppose you get the wheel off, take off the caliper, and take off the rotor. At this point on most cars you can pound the damaged stud through with a hammer and press a new one in by using a lug nut and some washers to pull the stud through till it seats.

But on the MDX, the clearance between the hub and the knuckle is not enough to allow this. Now you have to remove the axle nut (which by the way, is on there with a whole lot of torque) and use a slide hammer to pull the hub away from the wheel bearing enough to facilitate pushing the damaged stud out and getting a new one in. Then you'd have to press the hub back into the bearing by either using the axle nut if there's enough threads on the axle to get a bit on, or by loosening the knuckle from the lower ball joint (definitely not an easy task) and getting the knuckle out of the way enough that you can pull the cv joint axle out of the bearing so you can get a wheel bearing press tool (about $400) in there to do the job.

In other words...take it to a professional who already has these tools. If you don't even have air tools, this is out of your league.

 

Unless you have an extensive collection of tools, this is not going to happen for you.

Suppose you get the wheel off, take off the caliper, and take off the rotor. At this point on most cars you can pound the damaged stud through with a hammer and press a new one in by using a lug nut and some washers to pull the stud through till it seats.

But on the MDX, the clearance between the hub and the knuckle is not enough to allow this. Now you have to remove the axle nut (which by the way, is on there with a whole lot of torque) and use a slide hammer to pull the hub away from the wheel bearing enough to facilitate pushing the damaged stud out and getting a new one in. Then you'd have to press the hub back into the bearing by either using the axle nut if there's enough threads on the axle to get a bit on, or by loosening the knuckle from the lower ball joint (definitely not an easy task) and getting the knuckle out of the way enough that you can pull the cv joint axle out of the bearing so you can get a wheel bearing press tool (about $400) in there to do the job.

In other words...take it to a professional who already has these tools. If you don't even have air tools, this is out of your league.

Thanks for the reply... But damnit.... I had a feeling this would not be an easy fix (damn Acura).

Is it physically impossible to get the new wheel stud in the back? Or would it still go in with a lot of patience?

 

Unless "patience" is your way of saying money to buy tools, it's not happening. Impact gun, impact driver, slide hammer, ball joint separator, and wheel bearing/hub press. I have all that stuff. It cost me over a grand for that list of tools. You want to spend that much to replace a $2 stud?

 

Unless "patience" is your way of saying money to buy tools, it's not happening. Impact gun, impact driver, slide hammer, ball joint separator, and wheel bearing/hub press. I have all that stuff. It cost me over a grand for that list of tools. You want to spend that much to replace a $2 stud?

Okay. okay . okay. okay... I hear you... Looks like I will be taking it to a local wheel shop..

 

Can you get at the nut enough to crack it or cut it? Probably not without ruining the road wheel.

I looked at the service manual- sure is a PITA to get at that. I'd do it myself, then take the knuckle to a shop with a press. But that's me. (But I also made my own tool to take off the cranksaft pulley, broke the pulley, welded a metal bar to the pulley while still on the car to get it off- replaced the pully and still wound up $$ ahead on the timing belt replacement... just stubborn)

I'd still try backing it off- if it breaks you can surely still drive a few hundred miles.

Supertech- is an alignment check recommended after R&I the front knuckle?

A

 

then take the knuckle to a shop with a press.

Supertech- is an alignment check recommended after R&I the front knuckle?

Getting the knuckle off the car is a massive pain in the ass as well. To get the lower ball joint to "pop" free you need to use a special ball joint separator tool. A tool that sucks in my opinion. There's other ways to get it to pop, but it involves beating on it with a big hammer. And if the vehicle isn't in the air on a lift, you won't be able to aim well enough or hit it with enough force.

An alignment isn't required in my opinion. I'm pretty sure the manual says to do it, but you wouldn't be adjusting the tie rod in or out. And the only other thing that could change with MacPherson strut setup when taking a knuckle out is camber. But there's no wiggle room with the lower strut to knuckle mounting...so there's nothing that can really be changed.

 

2007 Acura MDX Front Wheel Stud Replacement

We have a 2007 Acura MDX with 170k miles. Last time I did front brakes, one wheel lug nut felt "funny". That's funny strange ... not haha. I was pretty sure it had gotten cross threaded from years of me doing work, etc. But it was tight ... and after reading these posts - I knew I was in for work to replace them. Grinding down the heads, etc.

I had a tire shop do a rotate and balance hoping they would easily free them - but no luck. This weekend I decided to tackle the job. I bought two studs for $1.99 a piece at O'Reilleys.

Working to get wheel off - I found two lug nuts stuck. Using a big bar - I kept loosing them until they snapped. Once wheel and brake caliper off , I realized a quick cut of the bike dust shield right at the point of the caliper mounting gave plenty of space to simply drop in the wheel stud. Not sure why my car is so different than everyone else's. It ended up being a quick and easy job. I used two big nuts to help pull on stud with lug nut.

Sorry - pics seem backwards in order. I used a grinder with 4" metal cut-off wheel to cut through brake dust shield.

Hope this helps others.

 

broke a stud in our 2010 mdx and had a feeling there was a better way to replace than to take off all that stuff...bumping this in hopes someone else sees this and turns a half a day project into a 15min one, as the post above details