I went back to the car tonight and performed the following.
1. Rotate crank (with belt installed) through 360 degrees with a standard 3/8" ratchet. I was met with a couple "springy" points, but if I backed off them I was able to push through with little resistance. At that point, I knew I had no damage.
2. Continue to rotate crank another 360 degrees to its mark. I knew I hadn't moved anything more than 10 degrees so logically the cams would not be 180 degrees off.
3. Remove the timing belt from the cams. The front cam did not move, but the rear cam (exhaust?) was springy and jumped CW about 60 degrees. From what I'd read on some threads, this was correct.
4. Locate front cam back to its timing mark. I actually pushed it further in both directions to feel that hard stop - it's a much different feel than the spring which has a progressively harder push to its apex then a quick release. Hitting the valve feels like hitting a wall...you'll know it.
5. Locate and hold rear cam to its timing mark. It was a little more touchy to center as it was at the top of a spring load. But there was a broader apex than the front cam so it was easier to hold in place.
6. Reinstall the timing belt according to the directions.
7. I was three teeth off on the front cam and 5 teeth off on the rear, both CW of TDC.
I'm now an expert having fully assembled and disassembled the components three times in as many days. I found two galled bolts in the engine mount which I chased down with a tap. I suspect an earlier repair/dealer did that. The bolts are Grade 10, M10x40 1.25mm pitch.
Note that the AutoManualSource download password didn't show up in time for me to reference it.
I also couldn't find my FSM.
So I winged it. And frankly it was a piece of cake by "feel". Sometimes book knowledge can hold you back.
The truck started normally and ran fine, sounding exactly as it did before.