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Old 07-27-2012, 08:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for this awesome video. I just passed 20K on my '08, and was thinking about doing this.

Something I learned from a lot of oil/fluid changes is to spread a 1mil plastic painter's tarp under the car before I change any fluids. You always think you can avoid spilling on the ground, but you always spill a little. The tarps are $1 or so in multi-packs so it's really cheap insurance. And you just recycle them with plastic shopping bags and the like.

For videos like this don't forget the wide shot. That is start from a few feet away and move/zoom in. So people can see the car's position, (on ramps? a lift etc) and, will know if you are above the engine looking down, or under looking up.
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:03 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks for the compliments and constructive critique. When I was editing on CS6, I found the zoom to far in. Yet the zoom on my lens was 18mm, the widest it will go. I'll try to learn from the mistakes. Also you have to remove the bottom inner bumper shroud to get access to the lines. I should have shown that.
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:24 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolpartysrule View Post
The "Honda Approved" method is a waste of time, mixing old fluid with new fluid doesn't make any sense at all. Just plain stupid. The transmission won't be damaged, since you aren't moving, the TC isn't even locked yet. The 08' doesn't have a removable filter, I checked, and there isn't one. The dealer's parts dept. confirmed that for me.
The person added a transmission filter. I did the same thing on my Hondas also since, you can't remove the OEM transmission filter. Yes, you can add another transmission filter to your ATF line and have two transmission filters.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Although I have never thought of doing this on the X, which is more delicate that my Volvo. This is recommended factory method of changing ATF on my 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo, with Pump-N-Refill by 3 quarts at a time using 12 quarts total to get a complete ATF flush. I have only done this twice in its 18 years w/over 135K.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Nice video, but I can't really tell what's going on to be honest (maybe just b/c I am noob)

Can someone do a step and step and enlighten a first time DIY'er? BTW, is the car raised in the vid?
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Great video and thanks for posting it. I originally had seen it on youtube last month. I have a couple of questions for you:

1. you don't drain the transmission fluid from the drain plug located underneath vehicle? You simply removed the bottom shroud and drain all the trans-fluid from the bottom line hose?

2. you poured 4 quarts of trans-fluid into the vehicle via the "fill bolt" after draining the trans fluid of 4 quarts approximately? Then you repeated that process again by removing 4 quarts approximately and then adding 4 quarts; but, then you state, in the video, you added an additional 2 extra quarts just to be sure. Is the extra 2 quarts, totaling 10 quarts, added at the end?

3. Is there any particular reason you don't add the trans-fluid via the trans-fluid "dip stick" hole.

4. Do you add an extender hose to the transmission fluid hose or was the original hose the appropriate length to reach the bucket you placed beside the vehicle?

5. from the vid, it appears that you have the MDX raised on black ramps, correct?

Speaking for myself, I've never changed the transmission fluid before and I don't want to f&ck it up. Any further responses you can provide would be appreciated.

thanks.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Great list of questions. When I started reading this thread I was about to type up almost the exact same list!

So, can the OP or somebody else answer these?

Quote:
Originally Posted by aucjmo22 View Post
Great video and thanks for posting it. I originally had seen it on youtube last month. I have a couple of questions for you:

1. you don't drain the transmission fluid from the drain plug located underneath vehicle? You simply removed the bottom shroud and drain all the trans-fluid from the bottom line hose?

2. you poured 4 quarts of trans-fluid into the vehicle via the "fill bolt" after draining the trans fluid of 4 quarts approximately? Then you repeated that process again by removing 4 quarts approximately and then adding 4 quarts; but, then you state, in the video, you added an additional 2 extra quarts just to be sure. Is the extra 2 quarts, totaling 10 quarts, added at the end?

3. Is there any particular reason you don't add the trans-fluid via the trans-fluid "dip stick" hole.

4. Do you add an extender hose to the transmission fluid hose or was the original hose the appropriate length to reach the bucket you placed beside the vehicle?

5. from the vid, it appears that you have the MDX raised on black ramps, correct?

Speaking for myself, I've never changed the transmission fluid before and I don't want to f&ck it up. Any further responses you can provide would be appreciated.

thanks.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
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This is moderately funny. Why spend 40-50k on a vehicle and skimp on A) Factory/Dealer Servicing B) OEM fluids.. Just to prove a point that in your opinion you dont "need" OEM fluids?

Great Tips.

Though.. Good effort on the video though.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:38 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I believe the biggest threat to a Honda transmission is not the use of aftermarket fluid. Rather, it's the incompetence of Honda engineers who design such inadequate transmissions to begin with. They do know how to build great engines, though.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:45 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:42 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaie View Post
This is moderately funny. Why spend 40-50k on a vehicle and skimp on A) Factory/Dealer Servicing B) OEM fluids.. Just to prove a point that in your opinion you dont "need" OEM fluids?

Great Tips.

Though.. Good effort on the video though.
DIY oil change does not require appointment and travel time, ATF-Z1 is proven to be weak for J35/J37 combo, DOT3 brake fluid is D.O.T spec, and 5w20 is just, 5w20. there are a long, lengthy thread in acurazine about TL transmission/ATF that worth a read. there are varies reasons for people to use none dealer services or OE fluid, it's important consumer has option and choice, such... how about engine oil, how about a better personal touch at local shop, or the OE fluid simply is not up to the task. Dealers sometimes does not even use Honda oil.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:00 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aucjmo22 View Post
Great video and thanks for posting it. I originally had seen it on youtube last month. I have a couple of questions for you:

1. you don't drain the transmission fluid from the drain plug located underneath vehicle? You simply removed the bottom shroud and drain all the trans-fluid from the bottom line hose?

2. you poured 4 quarts of trans-fluid into the vehicle via the "fill bolt" after draining the trans fluid of 4 quarts approximately? Then you repeated that process again by removing 4 quarts approximately and then adding 4 quarts; but, then you state, in the video, you added an additional 2 extra quarts just to be sure. Is the extra 2 quarts, totaling 10 quarts, added at the end?

3. Is there any particular reason you don't add the trans-fluid via the trans-fluid "dip stick" hole.

4. Do you add an extender hose to the transmission fluid hose or was the original hose the appropriate length to reach the bucket you placed beside the vehicle?

5. from the vid, it appears that you have the MDX raised on black ramps, correct?

Speaking for myself, I've never changed the transmission fluid before and I don't want to f&ck it up. Any further responses you can provide would be appreciated.

thanks.
i have some question too, for 1, i don't think the cooler method would drain all the ATF even after 1st drain/fill from ATF cooler. reason is use this method a few times, and notice the colour of ATF become "fresh" like ATF after 5 or 6L being pumped out. I am wondering if OP also noticed this as well.
I replaced the OE hose with a longer one, and route them to the battery area, cut the hose and install a Magnefine filter. when i want to change the fluid, I pull the filter from hose and dump the hose in a transparent bucket (on top of battery so i can see if from driver seat). then i start the engine and watch the old atf being pump out. but I still remove the drain plug to inspect and clean the magnet from time to time. the process is clean and easier then oil change.
the ATF dipstick on MDX is very small, and not suitable for filling ATF.
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:02 PM   #28 (permalink)
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DIY oil change does not require appointment and travel time, ATF-Z1 is proven to be weak for J35/J37 combo, DOT3 brake fluid is D.O.T spec, and 5w20 is just, 5w20. there are a long, lengthy thread in acurazine about TL transmission/ATF that worth a read. there are varies reasons for people to use none dealer services or OE fluid, it's important consumer has option and choice, such... how about engine oil, how about a better personal touch at local shop, or the OE fluid simply is not up to the task. Dealers sometimes does not even use Honda oil.
One of us is missing the point. But from what i can tell the OP's point wasnt that his choice was better as much as cheaper.

And ill i can go by is my own experiences. I follow manufacture suggestions always and have had several vehicles go over 250k including a VW Jetta. Which everyone and their mother in North America claim is the ****tiest vehicle they or someone they know have owned.
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:15 PM   #29 (permalink)
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One of us is missing the point. But from what i can tell the OP's point wasnt that his choice was better as much as cheaper.

And ill i can go by is my own experiences. I follow manufacture suggestions always and have had several vehicles go over 250k including a VW Jetta. Which everyone and their mother in North America claim is the ****tiest vehicle they or someone they know have owned.
true, i think you have a good point. also the Castrol ATF is said to be compatible with ATF-DW1, by Castrol. Honda does not have a certification program and so Honda has never certify or approve this Castrol ATF as replacement for DW1. so in any event of failure due to fluid, the owner will have to look for Castrol. the warranty ACT is just, stating that manufacturer can not force owner to use OE fluid. but i don't think owner has a choice if there is no replacement for OE fluid.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:49 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaie View Post
This is moderately funny. Why spend 40-50k on a vehicle and skimp on A) Factory/Dealer Servicing B) OEM fluids.. Just to prove a point that in your opinion you dont "need" OEM fluids?

Great Tips.

Though.. Good effort on the video though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gogozy View Post
DIY oil change does not require appointment and travel time, ATF-Z1 is proven to be weak for J35/J37 combo, DOT3 brake fluid is D.O.T spec, and 5w20 is just, 5w20. there are a long, lengthy thread in acurazine about TL transmission/ATF that worth a read. there are varies reasons for people to use none dealer services or OE fluid, it's important consumer has option and choice, such... how about engine oil, how about a better personal touch at local shop, or the OE fluid simply is not up to the task. Dealers sometimes does not even use Honda oil.
Just my opinion, but I agree with the OP in regards to using aftermarket fluids vs. OEM, it's not only cheaper at times, but a matter of convenience with regards to availability. The nearest dealer to me is about 20mins away, local Autozone or Pepboys are both 3mins away. I've been using Castrol GTX 5w20 on all my Honda vehicles for over 10yrs with out a single issue, so if the aftermarket fluids are comparable or in some cases even better then OEM, why limit yourself to just using OEM? My second issue would be with going to the dealer to have them service it, I'd have no problems with taking my $50k MDX to get serviced if the Dealers service dept. wouldn't try and rape me for service every time, I mean why allow yourself to get raped by someone for something as sample as most DIY jobs like Fluid changes, and regular maintenance items like Plugs, air filter, cabin filters, etc.. From my experience the dealers will prey on the weak or inexperienced and sometimes double the price on a simple job just to make the extra revenue. Hey to each their own, I won't be a part of that frenzy, I figure if I can do the job myself, then so be it, if not i'll learn, and if i still can't do it, then i'll rely on an independent mechanic or the dealer to repair what ever needs work on .
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