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How to change a 2008 MDX's Transmission Fluid

31K views 37 replies 20 participants last post by  jennecy 
#1 ·


Here is a video I made for those who want to do a transmission fluid change on a newer gen MDX. The procedure is the same for the first gen as well. Feel free to respond, how you would tackle the job, or would you do anything differently. Another topic of discussion would be design flaws of honda transmissions. Thanks for watching.
 
#2 ·
That's awesome!

I recently changed my transmission fuild (3.5L) and thought to myself "How does this make sense to leave more than half of the old ATF in there?". I may try your method next time.

I would suggest to use the DW-1 fluid if you are still under warranty as Honda may not cover your transmission IF there's a problem. Also, would it make more sense to keep adding the new ATF into the transmission while draining? This way you would have a less chance of running dry and cause damage.

Looking forward to more videos from you.
 
#9 ·
I have heard about this Act but I wonder if it will protect you when you use generic fluids which the car manufacturer specifically tells you, in writing, to not use because they will damage your car and void your warranty?
First, if a manufacturer tries to deny you service under warranty, they must prove beyond a doubt that your labor or part damaged the vehicle. The Castrol fluid is compatible with DW-1 fluid, therefore it cannot damage the transmission. Besides, How can Honda's service techs distinguish between fluids?
 
#12 ·
yes, i agree with OP this cooler hose atf change is probably the easiest, and efficient. the hose size is 3/8", you can disconnect it from the a few point. I use the same method, and add a few feet of atf hose to have a external filter next to the airbox, i disconnect the external filter connector and collect used atf there. the 2nd mdx, there are a few points you can disconnect to collect used fluid, but i found exit of AT, entry of AT to be easiest.
the OP's 2008 may be out of warranty, 2007-2009 MDX was filled with ATF-Z1 at factory, and I think either Maxlife ATF or Castrol Import ATF are an superior fluid to ATF-Z1.
 
#13 ·
Im planning on running DW1 which i just bought at the dealer. Would you advise pouring fresh in at the same time as its coming out with the engine running? Dipstick method or fill hole?

Ill probably tackle it this weekend. Im only worried about running the engine without adding fluid at the same time. But this seems the best and fastest way to remove almost all the old with new.
 
#14 ·
i did not try filling while old fluid was being pump out. the unit pump out fluid very very fast, and i don't think you can fill the fluid at the same rate. keep in mind this is NOT the usual "Honda Approved" way to change ATF.
you can do the "Honda approved" method with drain and fill if you concern of damage the unit. I choose this cooler flush after lots of reading, and myself, also does not want to waste expensive ATF doing drain and fill. the 2007-2008 mdx has a serviceable external filter, but in 2009 model, Honda move the filter into the AT housing, I added a new aftermarket filter to the atf cooler line.
 
#15 ·
The "Honda Approved" method is a waste of time, mixing old fluid with new fluid doesn't make any sense at all. Just plain stupid. The transmission won't be damaged, since you aren't moving, the TC isn't even locked yet. The 08' doesn't have a removable filter, I checked, and there isn't one. The dealer's parts dept. confirmed that for me.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for this awesome video. I just passed 20K on my '08, and was thinking about doing this.

Something I learned from a lot of oil/fluid changes is to spread a 1mil plastic painter's tarp under the car before I change any fluids. You always think you can avoid spilling on the ground, but you always spill a little. The tarps are $1 or so in multi-packs so it's really cheap insurance. And you just recycle them with plastic shopping bags and the like.

For videos like this don't forget the wide shot. That is start from a few feet away and move/zoom in. So people can see the car's position, (on ramps? a lift etc) and, will know if you are above the engine looking down, or under looking up.
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the compliments and constructive critique. When I was editing on CS6, I found the zoom to far in. Yet the zoom on my lens was 18mm, the widest it will go. I'll try to learn from the mistakes. Also you have to remove the bottom inner bumper shroud to get access to the lines. I should have shown that.
 
#19 ·
Although I have never thought of doing this on the X, which is more delicate that my Volvo. This is recommended factory method of changing ATF on my 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo, with Pump-N-Refill by 3 quarts at a time using 12 quarts total to get a complete ATF flush. I have only done this twice in its 18 years w/over 135K.
 
#21 ·
Great video and thanks for posting it. I originally had seen it on youtube last month. I have a couple of questions for you:

1. you don't drain the transmission fluid from the drain plug located underneath vehicle? You simply removed the bottom shroud and drain all the trans-fluid from the bottom line hose?

2. you poured 4 quarts of trans-fluid into the vehicle via the "fill bolt" after draining the trans fluid of 4 quarts approximately? Then you repeated that process again by removing 4 quarts approximately and then adding 4 quarts; but, then you state, in the video, you added an additional 2 extra quarts just to be sure. Is the extra 2 quarts, totaling 10 quarts, added at the end?

3. Is there any particular reason you don't add the trans-fluid via the trans-fluid "dip stick" hole.

4. Do you add an extender hose to the transmission fluid hose or was the original hose the appropriate length to reach the bucket you placed beside the vehicle?

5. from the vid, it appears that you have the MDX raised on black ramps, correct?

Speaking for myself, I've never changed the transmission fluid before and I don't want to f&ck it up. Any further responses you can provide would be appreciated.

thanks.
 
#26 ·
DIY oil change does not require appointment and travel time, ATF-Z1 is proven to be weak for J35/J37 combo, DOT3 brake fluid is D.O.T spec, and 5w20 is just, 5w20. there are a long, lengthy thread in acurazine about TL transmission/ATF that worth a read. there are varies reasons for people to use none dealer services or OE fluid, it's important consumer has option and choice, such... how about engine oil, how about a better personal touch at local shop, or the OE fluid simply is not up to the task. Dealers sometimes does not even use Honda oil.
 
#25 ·
^
:werd:
 
#37 ·
last time I got the transmission fluid changed on my Accord the mechanic spliced a machine into the transmission cooler hoses which drained out the old fluid and replaced it with new fluid as it circulated through the cooler loop

IIRC they start the engine and put the transmission in neutral and the fluid gradually gets replaced as the transmission pumps it through. There's a sight glass on the machine where you can see the oil going from black to a nice cherry red. This procedure takes the full quantity of oil the car is rated for

For the price it cost me (+/- $100 on the Accord including fluid) I think it was highly worth doing it that way

On my GF's Camry I asked if the Toyota dealer did the same thing but they said no, they only do a static dump and refill with ~1/3 the rated capacity of oil.
 
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