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Old 01-30-2012, 07:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
Ari
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2011 MDX Maintenance Schedule

I recently picked up a 2011 MDX Tech/Ent that my wife uses most of the time and we're determined to make this new purchase last a very long time (at least 300k miles in 12-15 years). All work done by me = zero labor costs. Discounting wear items (tires, brake pads/rotors, etc.) maintenance during the warranty period should cost around $800.

With that goal in mind I've come up with the following general maintenance regime which started at the first maintenance minder oil change. Any input others might have will be much appreciated (even if it's disagreement with the regimen).

Fluids:
Oil: Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20
Transmission: Honda/Acura ATF-DW1
Rear Differential: Honda/Acura VTM-4
Transfer Case: Amsoil Synthetic Gear Lube, 80W-90 GL5
Power Steering: Honda/Acura HG Power Steering Fluid
Coolant: Honda/Acura Type II
Fuel System Treatment: Gumout Regane

Oil Change and Tire Rotation (Begin Process at 10% Maintenance Minder), $45
Add Gumout Regane; Gas fill-up then drive till empty; Repeat; Do Oil Change
Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20
Royal Purple 10-2867 Oil Filter
14mm Drain Plug Crush Washer, Part #94109-14000
Rotate Tires

6,000 Miles, $64
Added Magflow Power Steering Filter, Napa Part #81-0589F ($15)
Replaced One Bottle of Honda Power Steering Fluid Lost During Filter Install, Part #08206-9002 ($4)
Drain and Replace Engine Oil with Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20
Remove and Replace Oil Filter (Royal Purple Oil Filter #10-2867)
Rotate Tires

7,500 Miles, $38
Rear Differential Fluid (Drain and Fill), VTM-4 Part #08200-9003A ($22)
Rear Differential Drain Plug Crush Washer, 18mm, Part #90471-PX4-000 ($1.50)
Rear Differential Fill Plug Crush Washer, 20mm, Part #94109-20000 (.50)
Transfer Case Fluid (Drain and Fill), Amsoil Synthetic Gear Lube, 80W-90, GL5 ($10)
Transfer Case Drain and Fill Plug Crush Washers (24mm) (2), Part #90441-PK4-000 ($6)

15k Miles (and every 30k Miles Thereafter), <$140 per Interval
Remove and Replace Air Filter, Part #17220-RYE-A10 ($20)
Remove and Replace Cabin Air Filter, Part #80292-SHJ-A41 ($30)
Automatic Transmission Fluid (3x Drain and Fill), ATF-DW1 Part #08200-9008 ($60)
Automatic Transmission Drain Plug Crush Washer, 18mm, Part #90471-PX4-000 ($1.50)
Automatic Transmission Fill Plug Crush Washer, 24mm Part #90441-PK4-000 ($3)
Rear Differential Fluid, (Drain and Fill), VTM-4 Part #08200-9003A ($22)
Rear Differential Drain Plug Crush Washer, 18mm, Part #90471-PX4-000 ($1.50)
Rear Differential Fill Plug Crush Washer, 20mm, Part #94109-20000 (.50)

30k Miles (and every 30k Miles Thereafter), <$190 Per Interval
Replace Air Filter, Part #17220-RYE-A10 ($20)
Replace Cabin Air Filter, Part #80292-SHJ-A41 ($30)
Automatic Transmission Fluid (3x Drain and Fill), ATF-DW1 Part #08200-9008 ($60)
18mm Plug Gasket, Part #90471-PX4-000 ($1.50)
24mm Plug Gasket Part #90441-PK4-000 ($3)
Rear Differential Fluid, (Drain and Fill), VTM-4 Part #08200-9003A ($22)
Rear Differential Drain Plug Crush Washer, 18mm, Part #90471-PX4-000 ($1.50)
Rear Differential Fill Plug Crush Washer, 20mm, Part #94109-20000 (.50)
Replace Automatic Transmission Oil Filter 25430-PLR-003, ($22)
Power Steering Fluid (Remove and Clean Filter, Replace Reservoir, Part #53701-STX-A03 ($10), and Honda/Acura Power Steering Fluid, Part #08206-9002 ($12)
Transfer Case Fluid (Drain and Fill), Amsoil Synthetic Gear Lube, 80W-90, GL5 ($10)
Transfer Case Drain and Fill Plug Crush Washers (24mm) (2), Part #90441-PK4-000 ($6)

105k mile service brings with it a lot of additional stuff that more than likely should be done, including:
Replace Timing Belt, Part #1414400-RCA-A01, ($53)
Replace Front Timing Belt Pulley, Part #14260-R70-A01 ($9)
Replace Rear Timing Belt Pulley, Part #14270-R70-A01 ($11)
Replace Idler Pulley, Part #31190-RCA-A02 ($17)
**What about: Replacing Timing Belt Adjuster, Part #14510-RCA-A01 ($96) and Replacing Tensioner Assembly (Auto), Part #14520-RCA-A01 ($108) ????
Replace Water Pump, Part #19200-R70-A11 ($125)
Replace Water Pump Gasket, Part #19222-R70-A11 ($2.50)
Replace Thermostat Assembly, Part #19301-PBE-A10 ($32)
Drain and Replace Coolant, Part #0L999-9011, $45 (3 Gallons)
Replace Serpentine Belt, Part 38920-RCA-A03, ($34)
Replace Camshaft Seals (2ea) , Part 91213-R70-A02 ($6 each)
Adjust Valves
Replace Valve Cover Gaskets, Need Part #_________ (About $100)
Replace Spark Plugs, Part #12290-R40-A01 (NGK ILZKR7B-11S), 6 Plugs, ($75)

I realize some of the maintenance, replacing transmission oil filter, frequency of drain and replace on ATF, replacing power steering reservoir, and differential and power steering fluids for example, most would not do. However, the goal is to create favorable conditions for a worry free MDX over the long haul so changing fluids/filters on shorter intervals in some cases is designed to do just that.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice writeup. Is the Pennzoil Ultra synthetic? I was told by my dealer that Acura recommends using conventional, and due to the life of my vehicle(52k when i took delivery) i'm probably going to stay with conventional.
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by osb View Post
Nice writeup. Is the Pennzoil Ultra synthetic? I was told by my dealer that Acura recommends using conventional, and due to the life of my vehicle(52k when i took delivery) i'm probably going to stay with conventional.
Pennzoil Ultra is a synthetic. Went with them after a lot of reading over at Bob Is The Oil Guy forums.

Keep in mind that synthetics generally have better characteristics (break down is less and flows better in cold weather for example) though there are some arguments for not doing synthetics depending on the mileage of one's vehicle. If it were me at 52k I'd still go with synthetic, especially given the longer intervals between oil changes.
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I switched to synthetic at 65K, no issues in the year since. I use Mobil-1 since the dealer uses it. I will switch to Pennzoil Ultra when my contract is up. Nice writeup. This should be a sticky, no?
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Odd that the service director told me to use conventional, and that Acura recommends it. I suspected it to be horse sh*t as I can't think of any reason NOT to run it.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by osb View Post
Odd that the service director told me to use conventional, and that Acura recommends it. I suspected it to be horse sh*t as I can't think of any reason NOT to run it.
I think manufacturers sometimes hedge on their general maintenance recommendations in order to make it appear costs are less than what they actually are/should be. For example, the A1 service changes oil but not filter while the B1 service changes both. In my mind I would never change oil without changing filter and I use a rather expensive Royal Purple filter that is suppose to allow for longer intervals. Saving a few bucks here and there is not worth the risk to me.
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Old 01-31-2012, 01:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A lot of time, research and writing go into this schedule. I've never been able to stick to plans like these, cause there will be other factors pop up here and there. Kudo to you to be able to do all the work yourself, including timimg belts. Over the years on all my cars, I've been able to do everything else but timing belts.

A couple of points, 1) you 10+ guys use VTM-4 and not ATF for rear diff like us 07-09? and, 2) how about brake fluid?
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Old 01-31-2012, 02:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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very nice write up. I will definitely use this as a guide. Thanks!
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sprtent View Post
A lot of time, research and writing go into this schedule. I've never been able to stick to plans like these, cause there will be other factors pop up here and there. Kudo to you to be able to do all the work yourself, including timimg belts. Over the years on all my cars, I've been able to do everything else but timing belts.

A couple of points, 1) you 10+ guys use VTM-4 and not ATF for rear diff like us 07-09? and, 2) how about brake fluid?
You're right. 2011 models take DPSF (Part #08200-9007A). Honda called the same Dual Pump Fluid II which has same part number minus the "A" but it is not clear if it is the same.

I was thinking First Generation as we had one before.

Moderators: Please replace VTM-4 with DPSF, Part #08200-9007A in first post so no one accidentally uses the wrong fluid.
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Why are you doing rear differential and transfer case at 7500k?

Also, doesn't rear differential take DPSF for all MDX's starting in 2007? VTM-4 is for 2006 and earlier MDX, right?
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Why are you doing rear differential and transfer case at 7500k?

Also, doesn't rear differential take DPSF for all MDX's starting in 2007? VTM-4 is for 2006 and earlier MDX, right?
Thanks. I already corrected the VTM-4 as I had a brain cramp from our First Generation days. See above where I correct the VTM-4 issue and ask moderators to correct it.

I tow a 20' Ranger Bass boat and Acura says to change differential fluid out at 7,500 miles under towing conditions.

I generally like to change out all fluids on a vehicle by about 7,500 miles save for the transmission fluid which will be fine until 15k miles. Once I do the 7,500 mile service regimen it will put me on a glide path from that point forward.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ari,

Excellent post. My girl & I recently acquired a 2011 MDX as well. I created a similar schedule. I am a Honda enthusiast and will perform the maintenance as well. I have a few suggestions you may want to consider:


1. Drain & replace the coolant less than 105K mile frequency. I recommend at least every 30K. I personally replace the coolant every 15k miles, but I drive less than 10k miles a year.

2. When replacing valve cover gasket, cam seals, or oil pump, use Honda Bond (part #08718-0004). Honda Bond is superior to the cheapo ATV silicone gasket sealant.

3. Clean/lube ball joints, suspension bushings, etc. I have not read or heard of a maintenance schedule. Additionally I do not believe Honda offers a cleanser or lubrication product. I personally prefer my vehicles to drive stiff and cannot stand "loose" suspension feel. Therefore I focus on maintaining/replacing bushings, motor mounts, and suspension components at a greater frequency.

4. Serpentine belt will most likely require replacing before 105K mile frequency. Replacement frequency will depend on many factors.

5. I maybe potentially going off topic, however rubber door, window, and trunk trim insulation requires maintenance. Clean with water and apply Honda Shin-Etsu Grease (massage into the rubber) every 3 to 6 months depending on climate.

6. Again, potentially going off topic, but the leather interior does require maintenance. I use Leatherique Prestine Clean once a month and Rejuvenation quarterly.

In regards to the timing belt, yes replace the adjuster and tensioner. Warn tensioners will yield "slack" in the timing belt. There is alternate method to tighten the timing belt, but not worth the risk for a daily driving vehicle.

I maybe forgetting a few items from my personal maintenance schedule, however the intervals are moving targets (potentially greater frequency) depending on driving conditions and routine inspections. Feel free to contact me if you have questions. Enjoy!

Eric
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
Ari
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Originally Posted by Eric_Dc2 View Post
Ari,

Excellent post. My girl & I recently acquired a 2011 MDX as well. I created a similar schedule. I am a Honda enthusiast and will perform the maintenance as well. I have a few suggestions you may want to consider:


1. Drain & replace the coolant less than 105K mile frequency. I recommend at least every 30K. I personally replace the coolant every 15k miles, but I drive less than 10k miles a year.

2. When replacing valve cover gasket, cam seals, or oil pump, use Honda Bond (part #08718-0004). Honda Bond is superior to the cheapo ATV silicone gasket sealant.

3. Clean/lube ball joints, suspension bushings, etc. I have not read or heard of a maintenance schedule. Additionally I do not believe Honda offers a cleanser or lubrication product. I personally prefer my vehicles to drive stiff and cannot stand "loose" suspension feel. Therefore I focus on maintaining/replacing bushings, motor mounts, and suspension components at a greater frequency.

4. Serpentine belt will most likely require replacing before 105K mile frequency. Replacement frequency will depend on many factors.

5. I maybe potentially going off topic, however rubber door, window, and trunk trim insulation requires maintenance. Clean with water and apply Honda Shin-Etsu Grease (massage into the rubber) every 3 to 6 months depending on climate.

6. Again, potentially going off topic, but the leather interior does require maintenance. I use Leatherique Prestine Clean once a month and Rejuvenation quarterly.

In regards to the timing belt, yes replace the adjuster and tensioner. Warn tensioners will yield "slack" in the timing belt. There is alternate method to tighten the timing belt, but not worth the risk for a daily driving vehicle.

I maybe forgetting a few items from my personal maintenance schedule, however the intervals are moving targets (potentially greater frequency) depending on driving conditions and routine inspections. Feel free to contact me if you have questions. Enjoy!

Eric
Thanks. Some good advice, especially the part on the serpentine belt prior to 105k. More than likely will just make it an item I inspect at oil change intervals and do as I believe necessary.

I already take care of the leather by cleaning with mild soap and water once a month and using Leather Honey every other month.

I think you're even more obsessive than I am on maintenance items. Not sure the coolant needs it every 15k miles but may look at doing it around 30-40k miles.
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Other Cars (Current): 2008 Lexus IS350 & 2007 Volvo S60R
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Subscribed for the great information. Thanks.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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are you aware that a lot of the maintenance intervals are part of your MID?? and they are not necessarily mileage dependent?? i'm all for regular maintenance, but not over maintenance which equates to wasting $$$. BUT, if it makes you happier and gives you peace of mind...more power to you. just sayin'.
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