Hello, this is a followup to the door panel removal I did earlier. This is for the 2004 MDX driver door actuator. Usually when the door lock doesn't work it is the actuator. I had already done an accord actuator two weeks ago but this MDX was a bit tougher. I had to do some unorthodox stuff but as usual you do this at your own risk.
A) Remove door panel. (DIY LINK: door panel removal - pics too
B) Roll window up and then disconnect the negative (black) battery cable. Make sure you know your code.
C) Peel back some of the white plastic covering. You might have to remove some screws or clips. (Definitely the screw by the door lock knob.)
D) The actuator is located near the rear of the door. It is #11 but as you can see it is covered by the window channel (10).
E) So go back to picture C and remove the bolt (9) using a 10mm socket and then carefully pull down on the channel. It looks like this when you get it out:
F) Now if you look back you will see that the actuator is held on by 2 screws (13) and it is also covered by a white solid plastic protector. This protector is held on by a single screw (12). At this point I removed the 2 actuator connectors. But not the screws yet.
G) That solid plastic protector over the actuator is actually connected to another piece on top that goes all the way to the door lock knob (9.5 in C's pic). I separated them at the joint. They just snapped apart. In the above photo, I had already taken it off.
H) So now I did some unorthodox stuff. I think at this point the kosher way is to disconnect a bunch of rods and the 3 big screws for the latch and then remove the whole latch with the actuator on it. I DID NOT DO THIS. If someone can clarify an easy way to do this that would be awesome. Here is what I actually did:
I) First I placed a bunch of paper towels in the crevice below so that if you do drop a screw, you aren't screwed
get it? I actually did drop one before my towel idea! But I got it out.
H) I then used a p2 philips and with good force, freed all three screws in step F. There is loctite on screws 13 so be careful. I used new screws for them.
I) Once the screws were out it took me 15 minutes to jiggle the actuator out along with the protector on it. I did have to lightly twist the protector to get the whole thing to come out.The door lock should be in the down position so that the linkage (14 in J) comes out easier (it would be up).
J) Here is a pic of the old actuator with the new actuator which has the protector over it.
J) Now this next part took me almost an hour to accomplish. We need to get this part back with the screw holes lined up and MOST IMPORTANTLY the lever (14) must go on 15. I focused on getting the lever (14) on first and I found it easier to have the door lock down which actually pushes 15 into the clear like my pic. It was a REAL PITA because the protector was also trying to fit too. But I GOT IT DONE! I did have to bend the protector a little to get it to go on.
K) Once I got the lever (14) on, I carefully line up all the holes and screwed the actuator screws back on first. Then it was a smaller PITA getting the protector screw back on. Actually my wife with her smaller fingers got that one on for me
At this point I snapped the upper protector back on and put everything back carefully in reverse order. This was a PITA job and it took me three hours. I hear the rears are easier mainly probably b/c the protector over the actuator comes out easier just like my accord.
As usual, feel free to comment or ask questions!