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Old 05-20-2010, 12:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
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driver door lock actuator

Hello, this is a followup to the door panel removal I did earlier. This is for the 2004 MDX driver door actuator. Usually when the door lock doesn't work it is the actuator. I had already done an accord actuator two weeks ago but this MDX was a bit tougher. I had to do some unorthodox stuff but as usual you do this at your own risk.

A) Remove door panel. (DIY LINK: door panel removal - pics too)

B) Roll window up and then disconnect the negative (black) battery cable. Make sure you know your code.


C) Peel back some of the white plastic covering. You might have to remove some screws or clips. (Definitely the screw by the door lock knob.)



D) The actuator is located near the rear of the door. It is #11 but as you can see it is covered by the window channel (10).



E) So go back to picture C and remove the bolt (9) using a 10mm socket and then carefully pull down on the channel. It looks like this when you get it out:



F) Now if you look back you will see that the actuator is held on by 2 screws (13) and it is also covered by a white solid plastic protector. This protector is held on by a single screw (12). At this point I removed the 2 actuator connectors. But not the screws yet.



G) That solid plastic protector over the actuator is actually connected to another piece on top that goes all the way to the door lock knob (9.5 in C's pic). I separated them at the joint. They just snapped apart. In the above photo, I had already taken it off.



H) So now I did some unorthodox stuff. I think at this point the kosher way is to disconnect a bunch of rods and the 3 big screws for the latch and then remove the whole latch with the actuator on it. I DID NOT DO THIS. If someone can clarify an easy way to do this that would be awesome. Here is what I actually did:


I) First I placed a bunch of paper towels in the crevice below so that if you do drop a screw, you aren't screwed get it? I actually did drop one before my towel idea! But I got it out.



H) I then used a p2 philips and with good force, freed all three screws in step F. There is loctite on screws 13 so be careful. I used new screws for them.


I) Once the screws were out it took me 15 minutes to jiggle the actuator out along with the protector on it. I did have to lightly twist the protector to get the whole thing to come out.The door lock should be in the down position so that the linkage (14 in J) comes out easier (it would be up).



J) Here is a pic of the old actuator with the new actuator which has the protector over it.



J) Now this next part took me almost an hour to accomplish. We need to get this part back with the screw holes lined up and MOST IMPORTANTLY the lever (14) must go on 15. I focused on getting the lever (14) on first and I found it easier to have the door lock down which actually pushes 15 into the clear like my pic. It was a REAL PITA because the protector was also trying to fit too. But I GOT IT DONE! I did have to bend the protector a little to get it to go on.





K) Once I got the lever (14) on, I carefully line up all the holes and screwed the actuator screws back on first. Then it was a smaller PITA getting the protector screw back on. Actually my wife with her smaller fingers got that one on for me

At this point I snapped the upper protector back on and put everything back carefully in reverse order. This was a PITA job and it took me three hours. I hear the rears are easier mainly probably b/c the protector over the actuator comes out easier just like my accord.

As usual, feel free to comment or ask questions!

-cl206
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Excellent write up. I added the door panel link in your post.

Added to the FAQ.
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks! That was cool!
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Also when putting the window channel guide back, make sure the top part of the removed channel is inserted snugly into the upper guide opening. I can see the connection from the very top. This way the window will slide down a continuous channel and not get scratched or worse.

Mods, anyway to edit this into my post?

thanks!
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Old 07-07-2010, 07:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great post. I am a total noob to this site and i found it while researching my actuator issuses. Here's my story:
I bought a used '05 MDX from an Acura dealership about 1.5 years ago and my door locks went out one by one over the past year. Starting with both the rear doors, then the drivers door (no keyless entry SUX!). I took it into the dealership recently to take advantage of my extended warranty. After doing my due dilagence, i found that the actuators have been an issue with in Acuras around my year. They replaced all 3 door actuators and they all work now (keyless entry works as well) EXCEPT the drivers door lock will not come up all the way. It only goes up about half way and it wont even manually release... They tried to tell me some BS about it possibly being the mutiplex control unit or a wiring problem.. Quote "now that the cercuit is complete, the control unit is sending a signal to the door to constantly lock." I'm not buying it b/c the door lock and remote worked before (its only been 2 months since it quit working), AND even after it went dead, the unlock SWITCH would still opperate the front and rear locks (so the cercuit was still complete even after the drivers door died) AND the driver's door would at least manually come un-locked. I am convenced that the door was not put back together properly and there is something empeeding the lock from coming all the way up. Becuase the lock doesnt come all the up, the computer tells the door to lock again, thus locking all the doors. If it was the control unit, wouldnt there be a LOT more hay-wire things going on besides one teeny-tiny aspect of it? And am i supposed to believe that suposed teeny-tiny issue with the control unit conveniently went out in the time the actuators went dead? Like I said im not buying it... It is extremely frustrating... I am going to take it back to the dealership but I wanted to know if anyone has ever heard of this problem before or have any suggestions... I am not going to open the door by myself after looking at these photos. Little intimidating..
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah I think they're lying to you. Since they did the work on it they are responsible to make sure it works well. I had my passenger front door did under warranty a couple of years ago and while it works, the lock tab doesn't fully go up straight. It is kinda crooked. I didn't realize it until I did my own door and realized I probably did a better job than they did. But back to your problem, I bet that when they unhooked all the rods (which is the complete way of doing it, which I didn't really do) they messed up putting it back together. If they won't comply, you might want to call the regional Acura office and see if you can get any action.

Believe it or not, my rear right door lock is going. I will try to just replace the motor and see if that works.

-cl206
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Thank you for your detailed post

It's been a while since you posted your very detailed instructions. Just wanted to let you know that they were VERY helpful when I fixed my door yesterday. It would have taken me much longer w/o your detailed explanations and photos.

Thanks for taking the time to make this post and the corresponding post about how to remove the door plastic.

Charles
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:49 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlestx View Post
It's been a while since you posted your very detailed instructions. Just wanted to let you know that they were VERY helpful when I fixed my door yesterday. It would have taken me much longer w/o your detailed explanations and photos.

Thanks for taking the time to make this post and the corresponding post about how to remove the door plastic.

Charles
Cool! I have since fixed one of the rear as well and that was VERY easy compared to the front. I actually just replaced the motor in the rear and kept everything so it only cost like 5 bucks to fix the rear but you do need a gear puller. Anyways I am glad this helped someone!
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks to cl206 for the great instructions. I replaced mine last night. Some tips from my experience that'll hopefully help others:

Step C: There's a metal bracket attached with two screws to the door frame which fits inside the inner door handle. I found it difficult to have a look at the door actuator without removing this first (it's in the way of my head). I also unclipped the black cable and connector cables from the door frame to give some room. These are the black and grey cables in the opening to the right of #9. The clips are immediately above and to the right of #9. I think cl206 did this, but just didn't mention it.

Step F: I only loosened screw #12 so that it came off the door frame, but was still screwed into the plastic protector. The screw was held tight by the plastic protector so I didn't have to worry about it falling out. It made re-screwing #12 back into the door frame much easier.

Step J: The difficulty with this step is because the plastic protector is blocking most of your view. If you take the old or new actuator without the plastic protector and fit it in, it's easy to see what you're doing and how you would have to angle the actuator to make it fit correctly. Once you get the hang of it, put in the new actuator with plastic protector and rely on your muscle memory and what little you can see to get it in there. Like cl206 said, it's easiest to put in #14 into #15 first and then line up the screw holes.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks to cl206 for the great instructions. I replaced mine last night. Some tips from my experience that'll hopefully help others:

Step C: There's a metal bracket attached with two screws to the door frame which fits inside the inner door handle. I found it difficult to have a look at the door actuator without removing this first (it's in the way of my head). I also unclipped the black cable and connector cables from the door frame to give some room. These are the black and grey cables in the opening to the right of #9. The clips are immediately above and to the right of #9. I think cl206 did this, but just didn't mention it.

Step F: I only loosened screw #12 so that it came off the door frame, but was still screwed into the plastic protector. The screw was held tight by the plastic protector so I didn't have to worry about it falling out. It made re-screwing #12 back into the door frame much easier.

Step J: The difficulty with this step is because the plastic protector is blocking most of your view. If you take the old or new actuator without the plastic protector and fit it in, it's easy to see what you're doing and how you would have to angle the actuator to make it fit correctly. Once you get the hang of it, put in the new actuator with plastic protector and rely on your muscle memory and what little you can see to get it in there. Like cl206 said, it's easiest to put in #14 into #15 first and then line up the screw holes.
Wow good for you! It's been a long time since I had any issues and now you know you've saved around $300ish from the dealer. At least they get business for the part. I got into doing it myself when a honda dealership lied to me about why my lock wasn't working. I will not debate this or go into it but they definitely lied and pissed me into a DIY LOL

I like the fact that I will be ready should they act up again. BTW that should be the hardest door. In all, my 04 mdx had the driver side and pass rear done (by me) and the front pass done under warranty.
Thanks for sharing!
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm1 View Post
Thanks to cl206 for the great instructions. I replaced mine last night. Some tips from my experience that'll hopefully help others:

Step C: There's a metal bracket attached with two screws to the door frame which fits inside the inner door handle. I found it difficult to have a look at the door actuator without removing this first (it's in the way of my head). I also unclipped the black cable and connector cables from the door frame to give some room. These are the black and grey cables in the opening to the right of #9. The clips are immediately above and to the right of #9. I think cl206 did this, but just didn't mention it.

Step F: I only loosened screw #12 so that it came off the door frame, but was still screwed into the plastic protector. The screw was held tight by the plastic protector so I didn't have to worry about it falling out. It made re-screwing #12 back into the door frame much easier.

Step J: The difficulty with this step is because the plastic protector is blocking most of your view. If you take the old or new actuator without the plastic protector and fit it in, it's easy to see what you're doing and how you would have to angle the actuator to make it fit correctly. Once you get the hang of it, put in the new actuator with plastic protector and rely on your muscle memory and what little you can see to get it in there. Like cl206 said, it's easiest to put in #14 into #15 first and then line up the screw holes.


THANK YOU SO MUCH cl206 and jm1! As I discussed earlier in this thread, the acura dealership screwed up my driver's door when I had them replace the actuator a couple of years ago. They did both back doors fine and they did eventually fix their mistake. However, the passenger front door was on its way out and the a&% at the dealership would not replace it under warranty because it still kinda worked. Its been out for a while now until TODAY!! I just wanted to thank both of you for your detailed instructions. For anyone reading this, jm1's additional instructions (especially step J ) are key. But a special thanks to cl206 for the painstaking details and photos.
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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THANK YOU SO MUCH cl206 and jm1! As I discussed earlier in this thread, the acura dealership screwed up my driver's door when I had them replace the actuator a couple of years ago. They did both back doors fine and they did eventually fix their mistake. However, the passenger front door was on its way out and the a&% at the dealership would not replace it under warranty because it still kinda worked. Its been out for a while now until TODAY!! I just wanted to thank both of you for your detailed instructions. For anyone reading this, jm1's additional instructions (especially step J ) are key. But a special thanks to cl206 for the painstaking details and photos.
No problem! I recently like a couple of weeks ago redid the actuator on my honda accord actuator. I only replaced the motor for like 5 bucks and now I can remove and replace the door in like a minute lol.
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Old 10-03-2013, 07:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Great info. I did the Driver's front and passenger rear today, the diy really helped. One thing - The driver's window does not go down after I reassembled the door. Can anyone tell me the proper way to reinstall the window guide? I felt up there and it seemed to be flush, but since is the only thing I messed with and all of the other windows work fine, I may want to back and check the alignment / adjustment. but not sure what I am looking for.
I did hold the window switch down for an extended period after reapplying battery power but no luck.
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Old 10-03-2013, 08:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Great info. I did the Driver's front and passenger rear today, the diy really helped. One thing - The driver's window does not go down after I reassembled the door. Can anyone tell me the proper way to reinstall the window guide? I felt up there and it seemed to be flush, but since is the only thing I messed with and all of the other windows work fine, I may want to back and check the alignment / adjustment. but not sure what I am looking for.
I did hold the window switch down for an extended period after reapplying battery power but no luck.
Is it not going down at all or is it not going down automatically after you hold down the button for a second?

If it is not going down at all, I would check that all the plugs are plugged in correctly all the way and also check the fuse. There is a fuse for the window and it might be possible you blew it but that is a really easy fix.

If it does go down but not auto, I think you need to hold down for a few seconds and up for a few seconds. I don't remember but I just messed with holding the button up and down for a few seconds and the auto window feature was restored.

The guide can only fit one way and you need to align bolt#9. Also, you can try to stick your head in a little to look or use your fingers to make sure the guide is in right. The top of the guide does "insert" a little so it is not just loose at the top.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It doesn't go all the way up because the guide pin was not properly in the guide when they installed the actuator. Had the same problem on my wife's Odyssey. I made the same mistake. Had to tear it completely down and do it again. 3 hour 10 min first time (4 beers). One hour 5 min the second (one beer).
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