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Old 04-27-2010, 12:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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MDX Serpentine belt install

Hi Guys,

I am having a heck of a time getting the new serpentine belt on over the tensioner. It is the correct belt but it is just slightly to short to get over the tensioner.

Am I wrong trying to get the belt over the tensioner last? Do I have to loosen any of the pulley bolts to get enough slack to slide the belt on? HELP... Thanks.
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Old 04-27-2010, 01:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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justathought....

Where did you buy the belt? Is it a Honda belt or another brand? Might even be the incorrect belt you were given. It should go on pretty easy once you move the tensioner out of the way and then let the tensioner do its job by letting it spring back in place. I'm not aware that ANYTHING has to be removed. Just move the tensioner out of the way, remove the old belt and install the new one. Pretty simple. If it's that difficult for you I would suspect your belt might be the incorrect belt. You might compare the new belt with the one you took off. Are they relatively the same size? Keep us posted on this because I'm sure there are a lot of folks interested in what you eventually do....and GOOD LUCK!!
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Old 04-27-2010, 02:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: justathought....

Quote:
Originally posted by ROTORRAY
Where did you buy the belt? Is it a Honda belt or another brand? Might even be the incorrect belt you were given. It should go on pretty easy once you move the tensioner out of the way and then let the tensioner do its job by letting it spring back in place. I'm not aware that ANYTHING has to be removed. Just move the tensioner out of the way, remove the old belt and install the new one. Pretty simple. If it's that difficult for you I would suspect your belt might be the incorrect belt. You might compare the new belt with the one you took off. Are they relatively the same size? Keep us posted on this because I'm sure there are a lot of folks interested in what you eventually do....and GOOD LUCK!!
I used a new Dayco Poly Rib belt # 5060840. It is the correct belt and is known to be a very good replacement. I also measured it against the older belt and they were similar in length. As usual, it is easier to remove then replace something.

I tried again and routed the belt around the tensioner pulley, without loosening the tensioner(belt is not yet fully on the upper pulley, giving you some belt slack). I then turned the tensioner inward with the socket and then with the belt partially around the upper pulley, then at the same time, I also had a socket on the upper pulley nut and gently turned the upper pulley counter clockwise until the belt rolled fully on(was not that tight)....

What a bit**. Dayco must make very tight belts but it now fits and works great. No squeeks like the Acura replacement belt that Acura installed for me 30K miles ago. Thanks.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I know this is an old thread, but.....

I tried replacing the old one with a new Dayco(same part# like OP), but no matter how much I tried, I just could not get the new belt on! Had no problem putting the old belt back on.

I just checked rockauto.com(where I bought it), and noticed that the Dayco belt measures 84.00". The next belt on the list was a Gates(part# K060841), which measures 84 5/8". Then there's a Goodyear(part# 4060840), which measures 84.75.
The Dayco is priced at $17.66. And $19.43, and $21.79 for the other 2, respectively.

It was my 1st time messing with a belt with an auto tensioner. But I'm gonna assume that the extra 5/8 or 3/4 from the 2 other belts should help. So I'll stop trying to be cheap, lol, and go ahead and get the Googyear belt.

Wish me luck.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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BTW, the reason I'm replacing the belt, is that my steering wheel gets really hard to turn.

Whenever I drive for a while(warm engine), and I'm trying to parallel park(where I'm at a stand-still), I can barely get the SW to turn. Only way(trick?) is when I put it in 'P'(or leave it in 'D' and step on the brakes) then rev the engine, and turn the SW, which then turns with ease. SW turns fine in the morning(cold engine).

Could it be the PS pump? But why only when the engine is warm/hot? Help!!
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vybzkartel View Post
BTW, the reason I'm replacing the belt, is that my steering wheel gets really hard to turn.

Whenever I drive for a while(warm engine), and I'm trying to parallel park(where I'm at a stand-still), I can barely get the SW to turn. Only way(trick?) is when I put it in 'P'(or leave it in 'D' and step on the brakes) then rev the engine, and turn the SW, which then turns with ease. SW turns fine in the morning(cold engine).

Could it be the PS pump? But why only when the engine is warm/hot? Help!!
Your pump is failing. Check Service Bulletin B12-017 for more info.
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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^ Thanks. Will do.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yup has the same issue and had to replace the pump
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Old 08-31-2014, 05:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Serpentine / Drive Belt & tensioner

Quote:
Originally Posted by vybzkartel View Post
I know this is an old thread, but.....

I tried replacing the old one with a new Dayco(same part# like OP), but no matter how much I tried, I just could not get the new belt on! Had no problem putting the old belt back on.

I just checked rockauto.com(where I bought it),

and noticed that the Dayco belt measures 84.00".

The next belt on the list was a Gates(part# K060841), which measures 84 5/8".

Then there's a Goodyear(part# 4060840), which measures 84.75.


It was my 1st time messing with a belt with an auto tensioner. But I'm gonna assume that the extra 5/8 or 3/4 from the 2 other belts should help.
that's strange that the goodyear part number that's similar to Dayco's 4060840 is longer than 84"

-------------------------------------------------------------
the OEM part #, Serpentine Drive Belt / Honda / 38920-RCA-A03 is readily online but i can't find the length of it online

I have purchased the Gates tensioner 38332 & the Gates drive belt K060841 & this Gates was the closest match to the original honda belt that was on the vehicle when i removed it.

so can someone else chimed in on why rockauto.com has 3 sizes?!?

i logged on to autozone & advance auto parts & both were only suggesting the -840 # only
--------------------------------------------------------------
ok, i'm linking a great thread that has the FSM pics & procedures:

Serpentine tensioner and belt

this is in the 2007-2013 era of the MDX, but the torque specs as well as all the diagrams i've seen on that link are spot on w/ my wife's 2005 model
----------------------------------------------------------------------
ok, now to fill in the gray areas where the FSM didn't really specify

I had to remove the front bumper fascia and upper/lower splash shields as well as peel back the passenger side fender liner (was installing an aftermarket transmission cooler at the same time)



it was easier than i thought!



removing the right wheel to peel back the wheel lining had to be done to access the lower 12mm bolt & you can attack the main 14mm bolt from either the bottom or the top



black recycling box used as a step so i can attack the tensioner & pull it out from the top... notice the aftermarket trans cooler that i mounted on the driver side



i took the old belt off w/ a standard ratchet & cheater bar, but had a bear trying to slip the new belt on since it's a bit shorter (not as stretched as the older one?!?)
i had to move the alternator wiring bracket by that bar on the passenger side
& you can also slip the ps container off it's bracket so you can move that hose out of your way w/out disconnecting the hose



had to use an offset 14mm wrench w/ a cheater bar to break the idler pulley/tensioner off... then spin a box wrench from above to remove it



the smaller 12mm bolt was easier to break free... about 7 o'clock position from the idler bolt



extension and a speedwrench made this bolt easy



this was all i need to tackle this part of my job for the weekend day (well along w/ screwdrivers/bit drivers to remove the fascia & that serpentine rental tool)


ok once you remove the tensioner from the top, check/ clean the mating surface & make sure the threads weren't damaged


there was also something in the instructions about some earlier models (i think 2001-2002) that you need to shave off ~3mm to the plastic timing belt cover... for clearance of the newer style tensioner. my 2005 had the revised cover, so i didn't need to do that



i transferred the 14mm bolt/washer from the idler pulley (fail ~ spewing out grease from the bearings ) the mileage is only 86K !!! and double-checked that every dimensions of the new Gates tensioner/pulleys are EXACTLY like the OEM one & it even had that recess in the back of the idler for that small white plastic washer


notice the wear marks to see if either your tensioner spring is worn or your belt is stretched to the limit... i used a black permanent marker to mark 'em.


ok, while the belt & tensioner are out ~ spin and clean the other pulleys to check for noise & to brush out any embedded dirt that got stuck in the cracks



sorta common sense? eh?

and reverse to install: drop that new tensioner from the top of the engine bay



don't forget to torque those 2 bolts to spec

push that serpentine belt tool towards the firewall/windshield & i found it easier to slip the belt over the idler pulley instead of fighting w/ the grooved pulleys. since i had the front bumper fascia off, i can slip my hand through the gaping hole where the windshield washer/ coolant/ & ps tanks were

start vehicle and check for sound/ do a visual to make sure the belt is tracking straight on those pulleys
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