***urgent*** i'm having a baby tomorrow 12/20/2012! - Page 2 - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 08:12 AM
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Look under the hood. On the line to the passenger compartment there is a valve connected to the controls. Screw gets loose. tighten
i'll try to find a thread that will help.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 08:20 AM
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This thread in pilot land includes a picture
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/showpost.php?p=328829


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by boston View Post
Look under the hood. On the line to the passenger compartment there is a valve connected to the controls. Screw gets loose. tighten
i'll try to find a thread that will help.
You are referring to the water valve. I replaced it already since the original one was showing signs of leakage in the form of a green residue around the bottom seal. Thank you for trying.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Not trying to steer this in the other direction..but damn dude. Way to wait last minute to make sure your car was drive-able.

=|
It wasn't last minute. I've went to Karen Radley Acura in Woodbridge, VA first. They said a flush and fill would solve the issue. Mainly, they said it was just air bubbles. They even told me it was fixed. I guess on a 60 degree day, it probably did appear to be fixed. If I had the time to do a flush and fill myself back then, I could have saved a ton of $$$.

Then I went hunting through the forums. I looked up the most common problems and went through them myself. I looked at diagnostic codes on the dash panel, and rear panel (blink codes) and found no problems. Then I inspected the water valve and swapped it out. I then disconnected both lines of the heater core, drained it, and let some CLR spend an hour or so in there. While that was working, I also checked the blend door actuator and anything else I could get to without removing the dash.

I used a garden hose to push water through the core and it flowed well, just as before the CLR. I don't believe the main channels of the core are blocked, just the small ones that the fins are attached to. That's why I feel the heat only gets 10-20 degrees warmer than the external air. There is flow, but not through most of the channels.

With the possiblity of a fluid volume issue, I went ahead and had James at Xceptional Auto in Spotsylvania, VA do a 120k service on it. The thought was that the water pump may not be moving the fluid enough or at all.

Since none of these things are free and can all be time consuming (I work 60+ hours a week), they took me the last year or two to get to this point. This isn't a case of procrastination, I assure you.

Oh, and I also just spent big $$$ on getting my roof repaired after a bad windstorm, my furnace serviced, and now $4000 out-of-pocket for a new baby. All of those over the last 2 weeks.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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After thinking about it, I remember one other such circumstance where someone had tried to stop a radiator leak with what we used to call "rabbit turds in syrup" (aka Bar's Leak). It got into everything but the actual lines going to and from the cores, and stopped up both cores like leaves in a sewer grate.
This is the only thing I think could cause both cores to no produce heat since they operate independently of each other and are not in series.
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