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Old 09-11-2008, 04:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Stiff shifter -easy fix

The shifter was getting very hard to change gears, so I looked at the linkage at the tranny. I found that the cable connection at the pivot arm was completely seized to the shaft. It is a poor design because the end on the shifter is a pot metal and the pin is steel. Guess what happens??!! It seized due to incompatible metals. Works great after cleaning and lubricating.
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting that pic.

Lately thats been a common topic.
http://acuramdx.org/forums/showthrea...threadid=33421
http://acuramdx.org/forums/showthrea...threadid=33420
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Old 09-14-2008, 12:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thank for the pic , I have the same problem! I check for the cable on my truck ,but I never see it!
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Old 09-14-2008, 12:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by stanky
thank for the pic , I have the same problem! I check for the cable on my truck ,but I never see it!
It is behind the plastic splash shield at the front of the left front wheel. You have to pop out the plastic fasteners and pull the splash shield back out of the way. I did not have to take off the whole splash shield since it is quite flexible and can be bent back. Hope that helps!! (It is pouring rain outside - otherwise I would go and take a picture for you!!)
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Old 09-14-2008, 08:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just noticed that my 04 has the same problem. Does not go to 2 and 1. Also has a problem going back to P. What is the easiest way to clean the connection?
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Old 09-16-2008, 12:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Damn I wish this topic was discussed two months ago. I would have been richer by 500 bucks today...

Yup - that's me... I am still angry with myself for not looking and trying to fix this myself... Panicked and took it to the stupid shop...

Oh well - glad we can save you folks some dough! Someone's gotta be the first to pay...
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Old 09-16-2008, 02:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Great work, RW! Man, I wish I knew about cars like this. How great is this, to be able to take a peek here and there and fix problems yourself?
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Some more pictures an instructions

To help some other DIY's, here are some more pics.

This shows the loactions of the plastic retainers that must be removed to get access to the shifter lever. You use a screwdriver to pop out the small round button in the center and then pop out the rest of the retainer.
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Stiff shifter-img_5388.jpg  
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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next step

I tied the outer plastic shield back out of the way
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Then the inner shield

The inner shield can be bent downwards
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Inner shield secured

Tuck the inner shield under the cross member
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1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 318-2bbl (6.1 L Hemi transplant in progress)
2003 Honda Accord EX-L,4cyl,5 speed
2009 Acura MDX Tech, Bali Blue Pearl
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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final steps

Now you can see the shifter lever and cable assembly.

First remove the plastic weather shield on the shifter arm by removing the bolt as shown. Then you can remove the clip on the end of the lever.
Now you should be able to CAREFULLY pry the cable end off the pin. Mine was very solid, so I appled some penetrating oil, and when that didn't work - I applied some heat with a propane torch to the round cable end (be careful not to burn the rubber boot either!!)

Then I was able to work the round cable end off the pin.
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Stiff shifter-img_5394.jpg  
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1970 Plymouth Superbird 440-6bbl
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback 340-4bbl
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 318-2bbl (6.1 L Hemi transplant in progress)
2003 Honda Accord EX-L,4cyl,5 speed
2009 Acura MDX Tech, Bali Blue Pearl
2006 BMW K1200LT
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thank for posting this RealWing.

I am adding this to the 2001-2006 FAQ section.
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Old 09-19-2008, 11:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thank You for posting this. I just did it this evening. There was rust buildup between the steel pin and cable end. The shifter didn't want to go into d4 and below. Now works line new. Some wd40 to remove the cable from pin and then lubricant on the pin itself. YOU SAVED ME HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS -- THANK YOU
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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My '05 was a tiny bit hard to shift but I didn't want to go through all the trouble RealWing went through with taking apart the wheel well. Sooo, I took a peek under my battery box with a flash light, greased up my left hand, slid it under the battery box and coated the linkage really well with lithium grease. Sifts great now only took about two minutes!
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