Broken Rear AC. Grrr... - Page 27 - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 11 votes, 4.91 average.
post #391 of 419 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 03:54 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 211
Thank you for the link to the post. Much appreciated.

It's not that I can't use the SEARCH feature, but the thing with searching is knowing what to type in the Search field.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smeddy2 View Post
Just googled "acura mdx front a/c repair" and this is the first thing that came up.

1st gen MDX Front AC fix



2004 Aspen White Pearl MDX
reds2k1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #392 of 419 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 04:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 19
Yeah it can be tricky sometimes...no worries.
Smeddy2 is offline  
post #393 of 419 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 11:04 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 7
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone, just fixed my rear a/c with all of your help...well at least most of your help
barrelled1979 is offline  
post #394 of 419 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 11:16 PM
Registered User
 
woof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 123
Well...

...I never thought I'd need it but here I am. My rear HVAC unit stopped working today. I'm almost 100% sure it's a broken thermal fuse. Just thought I'd pop in to subscribe for now. I'll have to buy a fuse and do some soldering sometime in the near future when I get a chance!
woof is offline  
post #395 of 419 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 01:03 PM
Registered User
 
woof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 123
Just an update that I decided to order a couple of thermal cutoffs from Digi-Key as well. They were 86 each but shipping is still $8 to Canada. Interesting to see that the shipping rate to Canada hasn't changed over the years since it's been $8 since the early pages of this thread!

Is it coincidence that I had to re-solder a few connections on my Daytime Running Light module recently too (you guys in the U.S. are going,"Huh?" at this point!)? I guess over time the solder points just crack but I find it funny that this will be 2 solder issues in a relatively short span of time.
woof is offline  
post #396 of 419 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 09:18 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 916
Any solder jt that gets warm and then cools is subject to fatigue cracking. Solder is not too good in fatigue loading.

good luck

2003 Acura MDX w/ Nav
2006 Acura TSX
2010 Acura TSX
1994 Honda Accord
See you down the ROW!
TexasHonda is offline  
post #397 of 419 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 05:42 PM
Super Moderator
 
Warzau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Chicago,Ill
Posts: 4,567
I don't think so much it's solder itself in that particular environment, but the fact it prob lead free solder.

NBP/E 2002 MDX Tour/Navi
SS, SG, BSM, Front Air Deflector, Philips Xenon 4,100k HID conversion for Lows, Sylvania SilverStar for Fog Lights,04 Spoiler. Finally, Alpine CD/MP3 Changer, Panasonic DVDPKG2 RES, SAM UNIT, rear camera, Alll for my Beautiful, daughter. Installed Wood Steering Wheel. whew.
Warzau is offline  
post #398 of 419 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 09:51 PM
Registered User
 
woof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 123
Do you suppose they used lead-free solder back in the early 2000s on these cars? I Googled typical solder joint failures and came across this short summary:

Solder Joint Failures

Quote:

Solder joint failures occur for various reasons: 1) poor solder joint design; 2) poor solder joint processing; 3) solder material issues; 4) excessive stresses applied to the solder joints, etc.. In general, however, solder joint failures are simply classified in terms of the nature of the stresses that caused them, as well as the manner in which the solder joints fail.

Most solder joint failures fall under three major categories: 1) tensile fracture due to stress overloading, which is short-term; 2) creep failure due to the application of a long-term, permanent load; and 3) fatigue failure due to the application of cyclical stresses. Of course, more than one of these stresses can act on a solder joint in a given situation, so solder joint failure analysis can be challenging at times. Add to this the fact that solder joint degradation due to other factors such as corrosion can occur.
woof is offline  
post #399 of 419 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 09:58 PM
Registered User
 
woof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 123
UPDATE:

I ordered 2 thermal cutoffs on Thursday February 14th, 2013 from Digi-Key and received the items the next day! I only got around to working on the car Sunday February 17th, but everything went pretty well (thanks to the wealth of information on this site) and now my rear HVAC blower is back in full working order once again.

I ended up insulating the thermal cutoff with polyolefin heat shrink tubing then applying an anti-oxidant compound similar to thermal grease at the interface between the transistor assembly and the heat sink. While I had the lower panel open, as others have recommended, I picked off the enormous dust build-up at the rear HVAC filter/screen. Didn't have to use a vacuum since the layer of dust was pretty solidly packed together. Ewww.
woof is offline  
post #400 of 419 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 07:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1
just got this fixed thanks to this thread! awesome!
itsboosting is offline  
post #401 of 419 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 07:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
Just replaced the thermal fuse. Went from no blower to blower always on high. Green Rear Manual control light is on in the front controls. When I push that, I can switch from the top vents to the floor vents using the rear controls, but the fan speed never changes and I cannot get the blower to ever turn off. It turns on as soon as the key is turned. When I turn the AC completely off, the rear blower stays on full blast. For now, I have the power unplugged to the blower so it is always off.

Do you think a new transistor assembly is needed? I have read elsewhere that when it fails, it can fail closed.

When I replaced the thermal fuse, I just wrapped the wires with electrical tape...I don't THINK there is a short, but I'm not 100% sure. I don't have any of the insulator sleeves.
Hawkeye83 is offline  
post #402 of 419 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 11:58 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
Nevermind. I jumpered it out with a piece of speaker wire, and it's working great now Thanks for all the informative posts here!
Hawkeye83 is offline  
post #403 of 419 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 10:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 24
hmmmm..so i jumped the circut and it didnt work. Fuses are good and ligts on the unit come on. Anyone know how to test the fan without having to pull it out?
natesezgoblue is offline  
post #404 of 419 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013, 11:55 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3
The MDXer's on this board are awesome! Just did the clean screen and replaced the transister. 1/2 hour job and "Houston we have the Rear A/C on again!"

Thanks so much!
Gryder is offline  
post #405 of 419 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 02:12 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by natesezgoblue View Post
hmmmm..so i jumped the circut and it didnt work. Fuses are good and ligts on the unit come on. Anyone know how to test the fan without having to pull it out?
remove the power going into fan get 12v battery and put it directly to terminals on the fan assemble + to + and - to-

Acura MDX'04 with Navi
cliffhanger is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome